More Slab ?'s
More Slab ?'s
So while ppl are talking about slab shoes and slab alley and whatnot, i have a ? What is your favorite and/or most memorable pitch(es) of slabby climbing @ Squamish? Remember it could a single pitch or a specific pitch on a multi pitch but don't just say "stairway to heaven", be specific on the actual pitch and if you feel so inclined please share details of how you were reduced to tears of sadness/fear/joy and left with trouser nuggets and holes in your shoes!!
Favourite pitches: all 3 on Local Boys, the dyke is great, then the 2nd pitch from thin, thin to beautiful chicken heads. The last pitch is entertaining too.
Memorable lead: the lower 5.9 pitch on white lightening, keeping the head together for a 30mish 5.9 pitch with no gear, sure made the 10's above feel easy.
Todd
Memorable lead: the lower 5.9 pitch on white lightening, keeping the head together for a 30mish 5.9 pitch with no gear, sure made the 10's above feel easy.
Todd
I've always thought of "Dreams of Passion" at Ronin's Corner as a typical high-quality squamish slab pitch. Also have a soft spot for "Foot in the Gravy" because my buddy and I used to get dropped off at the top of Burgers when we were 13 or 14 years old and setup a top-rope for a good ol' thrutch fest. Maybe that's why it's so polished now! Good memories though - can't believe that was about 15 years ago...
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soloing Banana Peel has been my most memorable slab adventure, what a romp!
It was followed by my first (and only so far!) trip down the slab descent - which scared the crap out of me! i had seen guys tromp down it in sandals with all their gear swinging from their backs, but I was reduced to crab-walking down, feet first and belly to the sky, terrified
It was followed by my first (and only so far!) trip down the slab descent - which scared the crap out of me! i had seen guys tromp down it in sandals with all their gear swinging from their backs, but I was reduced to crab-walking down, feet first and belly to the sky, terrified
White Lightening
Too green and too stupid to know any better........
I led White Lightening way back in 2000....my second year climbing.
Padded my way up unprotected slab to the overlap beside the dihedral of Deirdre proper....stuck in a piece of gear (I think?) surmounted the overlap and looked up....way up.....to the sparsely bolted pitch. I began to climb....Oh...how I wished I could climb just a little left and into the sweet embrace of Deirdre's well-protected crack...but alas..I was in stuck in the throngs of open head spinning 10c slab.....
Needless to say, took a few 15 to 20 foot slab falls, but eventually managed to lead every pitch...topping out at Broadway.
Haven't been back since!
Paddy.
I led White Lightening way back in 2000....my second year climbing.
Padded my way up unprotected slab to the overlap beside the dihedral of Deirdre proper....stuck in a piece of gear (I think?) surmounted the overlap and looked up....way up.....to the sparsely bolted pitch. I began to climb....Oh...how I wished I could climb just a little left and into the sweet embrace of Deirdre's well-protected crack...but alas..I was in stuck in the throngs of open head spinning 10c slab.....
Needless to say, took a few 15 to 20 foot slab falls, but eventually managed to lead every pitch...topping out at Broadway.
Haven't been back since!
Paddy.
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