Shoe reccomendations for climbing hard slab in squamish

[whippersnapper]

Just curious what people around here are sporting on their feet when they climb hard slab? I've decided I want to take a crack at Magic Carpet Ride within the next year or so, and I'd like any advantage I can get. Currently I'm using the five ten 5x, which is decent, but I have them sized so my toes are curled which I don't think helps on slab at all.

Any general recommendations on what I should be looking for? I have mortons toe (second toe is longer than the big toe) if that makes any difference.

[Dru]

the hardest slabs i have climbed are 5.11, but i will chip in to note that if you size your shoes slightly larger you can get more rubber on the rock when you smear....

and you defnitely want toes flat in the shoe for slab, as you noted. you can't really smear much with toes stuck in crimp mode.

[thebigchin]

Get what fits, but for my money its damn hard to beat the Anasazi Lace-ups.

[harihari]

Get what fits, but for my money its damn hard to beat the Anasazi Lace-ups.

Ya, good points. I used Boreal Stingers (the best all-around shoe in the Universe but no longer sold in North America) when I did some mid-11 slab routes. Now I have a pair of Mythos which are almost as good (and are great crack climbing shoes too)-- but if you buy Mythos, size 'em TIGHT-- they stretch big-time.

[enchanted]

I second the Anasazi Lace-ups. The best hard slab shoe for sure. For easy slabs the Guide Tennies are king. Comfortable and they stick like glue!

[slopr]

I like slab and i like slab a lot more when i'm wearing a new pair of Muira's lace up.
Muira velcro's also rule for edging,smearing and standing on small crystals. If you size em flat & snug they won't stretch much either making a wicked all around squamish shoe. The biggest performance advantage this shoe has over the 5.10 is not how hard of slab you can climb in them since it's probably more about the climber but how much less they stink after use since they aren't synthetic... maybe slab is all in the mind? maybe i just stink? Get what fits.

[harihari]

Smelly shoes are easy to deal with. Before you wear it for the first time, buy Dr Scholl's foot powder (any supermarket) and rub quit e abit of it into the inside of the shoe, all over.

After you climb, stuff a piece of newspaper in there to soak up the sweat. And once or twice a year, scrub the sh*t out of the inside of the shoe, using hot water and mild detergent with a nylon brush. After it dries, rub more Dr Scholl's in there. Presto, no stink.

You coudl probably also just use baking soda.

I like slab and i like slab a lot more when i'm wearing a new pair of Muira's lace up.
Muira velcro's also rule for edging,smearing and standing on small crystals. If you size em flat & snug they won't stretch much either making a wicked all around squamish shoe. The biggest performance advantage this shoe has over the 5.10 is not how hard of slab you can climb in them since it's probably more about the climber but how much less they stink after use since they aren't synthetic... maybe slab is all in the mind? maybe i just stink? Get what fits.

[whippersnapper]

Thanks guys, I'll check out the Anasazi Lace-ups.

[Paddy]

Got to say that the type of shoe is less important than fine slab technique.......If you don't believe me, check out the dates on the early first ascents of hard slab routes on the Apron, then take a look at the shoes worn during that time...........along with the runouts...............try putting on a old pair of boots and climb White Lightening.....I wouldn't!

[slopr]

Smelly shoes are easy to deal with. Before you wear it for the first time, buy Dr Scholl's foot powder (any supermarket) and rub quit e abit of it into the inside of the shoe, all over.

After you climb, stuff a piece of newspaper in there to soak up the sweat. And once or twice a year, scrub the sh*t out of the inside of the shoe, using hot water and mild detergent with a nylon brush. After it dries, rub more Dr Scholl's in there. Presto, no stink.

You coudl probably also just use baking soda.

all that anti stink work sounds fun but i think i'll just work on my technique and stick with the sportivas - shoes made from cows

[Don Serl]

Just curious what people around here are sporting on their feet when they climb hard slab?

i'm gonna definitely show my generation (gap?) here, but the best shoes i've experienced for slab have been quite beefy, board-lasted shoes. finest of all were a pair of Asolo Canyons resoled with 5.10 rubber. still got 'em, sometimes climb in 'em. used to use Sportiva Mariachers too, fit pretty big (i wear sox in all my shoes - can't stand the scuzz without - plus you get to slipping around in the shoes a bit when your feet get sweaty...) never got on with Boreal Ballets, btw, even when they were the hot ticket. i've no idea what models of shoe fall roughly into this camp these days... probably some 'beginner' shoes...

my normal shoes are Mythos (also resoled with 5.10), and they're OK, and i even used Ninjas a bit years ago when i was doing my hardest slab climbs (not on the hardest routes, tho), but i learned to slab climb as a form of FACE climbing, and the soft shoes don't let you apply as much power onto the (tiny) edges and crystals that are the keys to hard squamish slabs. plus, we were hand drilling on lead, and you have to be able to stand there for a while without 'oozing off'...

as for Mortons toe, buy the shoes large enuf to be comfortable, but narrow enuf so that you can apply full force onto the OUTside edge of the shoe (tips of little toe thru 4th and 3rd) - when the climbing gets reeeeeally thin, it's often more effective to angle your foot inwards and get onto the outside edge of the shoe (sometimes only with one foot, which gets you climbing kinda sideways). again, i find you can apply more power to tiny features this way.

hope this helps.

enjoy MCR - cool route - a couple serious runouts, but ok protection where you need it - just keep your head together!

cheers,

[whippersnapper]

Thanks Don, great advice.

While I have everyone's attention, another slab related question comes to mind. I have yet to take a true fall on slab (as in, one where i don't stay on my feet).

What's the best way to take a fall when you're not going to be able to stay right side up? I assume tumbling is bad news, do you slide on your butt or something?

Also, any recommendations on clothing to limit road rash when you do slide?

[jefffski]

if the bolt is directly below you, the rope should be between your legs. Otherwise be very sure that the rope is on the bolt side. This will help prevent the rope from flipping you upside down.

[dirty]

Yeah, I have a good suggestion for you.
It is some positive beta that might just get you up the route.





Wait for it.....

















GET YER a$% UP THERE !!!!!

Hope this helps



A.

[harihari]

if the bolt is directly below you, the rope should be between your legs. Otherwise be very sure that the rope is on the bolt side. This will help prevent the rope from flipping you upside down.

Wear jeans or other thick pants, a long-sleeved shirt, and make sure the rope is to one side or the other of your leg (side bolt is on). Worst accident I ever saw was a guy who was flipped backward by rope under leg and smashed his head. Lots of folks don't liek helmets but I wear one unless I am bouldering or doing steep sport climbing.