Sting in the Tail-bughouse heights

[jefffski]

I climbed, or tried to climb this 10c slab route on saturday. i was unable to clip the third and final bolt. i noticed that an old 1/4" bolt had been chopped and replaced with a newer bolt with a barley-type hangar. unfortunately the new bolt was placed 2 inches left of the old one. i spent 10 minutes or so, trying to reach it, to no avail. i tried everything, short of falling, to clip it. the bolt below was 8-10 feet away, so i did not want to try a flying leap.

i wonder if the bolt was placed badly or if i missed the move.

any thoughts?

[dakine]

Don't climb slab...[/quote]

[bradley3297]

i caught the fall.... but you have a good point. lol.

[jefffski]

thanks for the catch b. just to be clear, i fell on my first try getting to the 3rd bolt. not only was it a long fall, but the the rope got caught behind my leg and flipped me over. it was quite a thrill watching the ground coming up to me. I was bloodied a bit from the scrape but climbed back up.

after spending a crazy amount of time at the 3rd bolt, i downclimbed to the 2nd bolt, lowered to the first bolt, anchored in, untied, pulled the rope, retied, and climbed the 10a on the left. at the anchor, i rapped and cleaned the draw i left behind on the 2nd bolt.

quite the adventure.

still looking for an answer to my question above--why is that 3rd bolt on sting in the tail placed so far from the stance?

[pinner]

Maybe they'd already named it "Sting in the Tail", then realized it was actually an easy finish....