dancing in the light - trad/sport????

[j_ng]

maybe a dumb question... is this climb bolted???

[harihari]

maybe a dumb question... is this climb bolted???

it's all bolts but you need one .75 or #1 camalot at the start if memory serves. don serl can wank in a nut on the 11b pitch but I didn't bother. it's a classic. runout ont he easy stuff but lots of bolts where it's tough. enjoy!

[t-bone]

like harihari said, there are really only two spots for gear. The first is a .75 cam that protects a 10- move, and the 2nd is a rattly little nut that 'protects' a 10ish move.
Other than that its all bolts....but I wouldn't exactly call is a sport climb

[Anders Ourom]

It is bolted, but is definitely not a 'sport' climb, at least in the sense that that adjective is usually used. The hard pitches (5.10+ - 5.11) are fairly well protected by Apron standards - six or eight bolts per pitch. The moderate (5.10) pitches less so, etc. it's possible to place a small nut or cam on the fourth (?) pitch, and you never know where you might end up, so it makes sense to bring a small rack.

A classic, fairly sustained, quite direct, fairly hard, Squamish slab route.

[j_ng]

thanks...

[Don Serl]

maybe a dumb question... is this climb bolted???

the info from the others is correct, but two comments:

1. i always used to protect the initial groove by first climbing up the corner to the left and plugging in a mid-sized friend with a generous sling, then coming back down and doing the groove. i never had confidence that the dicky little cams that fit the groove itself would hold, but then i'm old school..

2. for sure a pencil-eraser sized nut fits the little layback ramp on the 4th pitch, and i'm convinced the placement is pretty solid. never fell onto it (moderate 5.10 moves), but felt good to have something there. also seems like a tiny cam might go in too...

p.s. there's more info in the post from when chris and i cleaned and re-and-re'ed some of the bolting a few years ago:

http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_cl ... t=don+serl



cheers,