Cleaning Sun Aug 30th - Sherrif's Badge area
Cleaning Sun Aug 30th - Sherrif's Badge area
New routing/cleaning will be happening between Sherrif's Badge and Upper Echelon, on Sun Aug 30th please beware of rock fall.
Thank you for a good start, albeit after a false one. I was the fellow calling over to you from angle's crest today. I hope my volume did not imply emotion.
I think it would be wise to mark all trails in the area with yellow flagging tape too, or wait for the rain.
btw, i applaud all fa's for the efforts to create new routes that i often really enjoy.
I think it would be wise to mark all trails in the area with yellow flagging tape too, or wait for the rain.
btw, i applaud all fa's for the efforts to create new routes that i often really enjoy.
ya, thanks Julie for posting this fro me and Dilly. FYI folks, we are engaged in the creation of an 18-pitch 5.12- (we think) route, I don't know what the name of the area is but it is right of the Badge and left of where Powaquatsi (lower down below terrace) and Upper Echelon (at top) are. The area where we have been working has no routes that we have heard of and we have never seen anybody there. Also rockfall hits the terrace and does not make it into the lower forest. Yes you will hear it from the Badge but you will NOT be anywhere near it. Anyway, we are getting close to being done the major grunt-work on the route. We are expecting 1 more day of clearing (some rockfall) and then it is scrubbing, bolts, pruning yadda.Joolie wrote:Just posted this on behalf of a friend. Not my route so can't comment on anything really.
Follow the fun at http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com
chris
jeffski-- thaniks-- and I too now have nearly infinite respect for ANYBODy who has ever put up a route in Squamish. The sheer amount of work it takes before you even get close to tryign to climb it has really surprised me. Today I spent four hours with a crowbar brush and nut tool to get a 40m handcrack clean. nuts! but the route will be worth it. cool positions and varied climbing.jefffski wrote:Thank you for a good start, albeit after a false one. I was the fellow calling over to you from angle's crest today. I hope my volume did not imply emotion.
I think it would be wise to mark all trails in the area with yellow flagging tape too, or wait for the rain.
btw, i applaud all fa's for the efforts to create new routes that i often really enjoy.
chris
-
Optimally-Primed
- Senior Member
- Posts: 350
- Joined: Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:04 am
Chris, by the looks of some of the photos on your blog, looks to me as though you've found some great features. Great work on making such a contribution to the Squamish community of climbs. Two comments:
1. If the route ends up having a relatively short 5.12 section, it'd be cool to know how much C1 is required and what it reduces the free grade to... Traffic is essential to keep scrubbed routes clean. And by my observation, traffic generally increases as grades decrease. I heard that Warriors of the Wasteland is overgrowing. I just checked out my first route, Optimus Prime, and noticed some overgrowth (I may overhaul the route to make it super friendly). If you want the route to stick around for a while, maybe think about how to attract traffic.
2. You cleaned 40m in one day? Wow! That's more than what I typically get done. One day on the UBD, I got 5m done *with* a partner. Then again, sleet was falling on us and he had forgotten his jacket. For normally vegetated cracks, I figure that 20m a day is typical. The photos on your blog show features that are naturally quite clean. Cleaning is really hard work. Good one.
Great work! If I ever get strong enough for 5.12, I'll be sure to head up for a sniff (once it's done).
Jeremy Frimer
1. If the route ends up having a relatively short 5.12 section, it'd be cool to know how much C1 is required and what it reduces the free grade to... Traffic is essential to keep scrubbed routes clean. And by my observation, traffic generally increases as grades decrease. I heard that Warriors of the Wasteland is overgrowing. I just checked out my first route, Optimus Prime, and noticed some overgrowth (I may overhaul the route to make it super friendly). If you want the route to stick around for a while, maybe think about how to attract traffic.
2. You cleaned 40m in one day? Wow! That's more than what I typically get done. One day on the UBD, I got 5m done *with* a partner. Then again, sleet was falling on us and he had forgotten his jacket. For normally vegetated cracks, I figure that 20m a day is typical. The photos on your blog show features that are naturally quite clean. Cleaning is really hard work. Good one.
Great work! If I ever get strong enough for 5.12, I'll be sure to head up for a sniff (once it's done).
Jeremy Frimer
Caramba's been done at least a handful of times in the last decade, just adding up people i know who have done it. It's a fine adventure if you like trees and mossy slabs.Sunday wrote:Sweet, sounds and looks great. "Caramba Crags" I believe goes under where you are cleaning. I know this just because the day we went up the sheriffs badge I was joking with my buddy that we should do it... probably hasn't been climbed in 20+ years.
Hi jeremy--
The first of the 11+/12- pitches can be aided by pulling & standing on bolts. The second, we may build a bolt-ladder bypass a la Grand Wall. The rest of the route will not be harder than 11a, possibly 10+. it has some AWESOME pitches on it and some wild positions. If it comes in at 11- it will be an areaq classic for sure, something like a harder Angel's Crest-- varied and long.
Ya the cleaning is easier than elswhere cos that part of the wall gets little sun, so you tend to have a bit of moss and lots of loose crap, but little in the way of cedars (the bane of any new route) and heavy bush. We cleaned a 60 meter handcrack pitch in one day!
What I am really hoping is that this route opens some doors. There are LOADS of good features up there and more lines. it will be a superb palce to climb May-Oct esp in the heat. And the bottom 5 pitches are (I think) in a rainshadow and so make a nice outing in their own right. Anyway stay tuned to blog.
chris
The first of the 11+/12- pitches can be aided by pulling & standing on bolts. The second, we may build a bolt-ladder bypass a la Grand Wall. The rest of the route will not be harder than 11a, possibly 10+. it has some AWESOME pitches on it and some wild positions. If it comes in at 11- it will be an areaq classic for sure, something like a harder Angel's Crest-- varied and long.
Ya the cleaning is easier than elswhere cos that part of the wall gets little sun, so you tend to have a bit of moss and lots of loose crap, but little in the way of cedars (the bane of any new route) and heavy bush. We cleaned a 60 meter handcrack pitch in one day!
What I am really hoping is that this route opens some doors. There are LOADS of good features up there and more lines. it will be a superb palce to climb May-Oct esp in the heat. And the bottom 5 pitches are (I think) in a rainshadow and so make a nice outing in their own right. Anyway stay tuned to blog.
chris
Optimally-Primed wrote:Chris, by the looks of some of the photos on your blog, looks to me as though you've found some great features. Great work on making such a contribution to the Squamish community of climbs. Two comments:
1. If the route ends up having a relatively short 5.12 section, it'd be cool to know how much C1 is required and what it reduces the free grade to... Traffic is essential to keep scrubbed routes clean. And by my observation, traffic generally increases as grades decrease. I heard that Warriors of the Wasteland is overgrowing. I just checked out my first route, Optimus Prime, and noticed some overgrowth (I may overhaul the route to make it super friendly). If you want the route to stick around for a while, maybe think about how to attract traffic.
2. You cleaned 40m in one day? Wow! That's more than what I typically get done. One day on the UBD, I got 5m done *with* a partner. Then again, sleet was falling on us and he had forgotten his jacket. For normally vegetated cracks, I figure that 20m a day is typical. The photos on your blog show features that are naturally quite clean. Cleaning is really hard work. Good one.
Great work! If I ever get strong enough for 5.12, I'll be sure to head up for a sniff (once it's done).
Jeremy Frimer
Hi Drew--
Caramba Crags is to climber's left of where we are. You are right, it does get done once in a blue moon, it joins Angel's Crest, and it it totally shitty. We Actually went up there lookikng for a route, jugged somebody else's fixed lines (Miles?) and then spied our project. Caramba woudl make another nice moderate-- the guides should get involved, it's so low-angle yadda you could bring clinets there in heat of summer.
chris
Caramba Crags is to climber's left of where we are. You are right, it does get done once in a blue moon, it joins Angel's Crest, and it it totally shitty. We Actually went up there lookikng for a route, jugged somebody else's fixed lines (Miles?) and then spied our project. Caramba woudl make another nice moderate-- the guides should get involved, it's so low-angle yadda you could bring clinets there in heat of summer.
chris
Dru wrote:Caramba's been done at least a handful of times in the last decade, just adding up people i know who have done it. It's a fine adventure if you like trees and mossy slabs.Sunday wrote:Sweet, sounds and looks great. "Caramba Crags" I believe goes under where you are cleaning. I know this just because the day we went up the sheriffs badge I was joking with my buddy that we should do it... probably hasn't been climbed in 20+ years.
Hey Jeremy--
We added two bolts to the o/w pitch today. The thing would need two #6 camalots to protect and I don't know how may people have those. It will now be climbable with one #5 camalot, or, if you feel REALLY solid at mid 10s, two #4s.
Also added a few more bolts to the two crap pitches-- there will be no stress climbing those. Bolt ladder bypass is next.
chris
We added two bolts to the o/w pitch today. The thing would need two #6 camalots to protect and I don't know how may people have those. It will now be climbable with one #5 camalot, or, if you feel REALLY solid at mid 10s, two #4s.
Also added a few more bolts to the two crap pitches-- there will be no stress climbing those. Bolt ladder bypass is next.
chris
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