Slesse: bypass glacier condition ?

[t-bone]

Anyone know what condition the glacier is in....has it slid off yet?

[pinner]

From a trip report on cascadeclimbers, on July 7th:

The bypass glacier, which was our main safety concern on the trip, had mostly slid away. The portion that remained was about 20 meters from front to back and 80 meters left to right. The problem was that a portion was sitting entirely on the 3rd class ledge making that route too dangerous for our liking.

I know it's not recent info, but with all the heat we've had since then I would think it's slid, or not going to...

[Dru]

As of last weekend there was still a chunk of ice hanging on right against the base of the east face. Not particularly large, but would kill you if it moved while you were below it.

[t-bone]

thanks Dru.
Do you know if the Slesse Creek FS road is gated? I read a cc.com post about a 'hidden' key...any beta?

[Dru]

Not only is it gated but the military police are patrolling and arresting or hassling climbers. I believe you can get a key midweek by special arrangement but I don't know how exactly, Chilliwack MoF office might be able to tell you how. You may as well just come down Crossover.

[Dru]

From last Saturday...

[t-bone]

thanks for the photo.
I've heard the Crossover descent is pretty ugly...although Optimally Primed's topo details it very well.
I expect we'll be topping out around 4ish so not sure whether we'll have the daylight for Crossover, considering we've never scoped it out

[Dru]

You have all day to eyeball it from the route. Follow the biggest trees down and you can't go wrong.

[tendollarpants]

Anyone have any beta on the condition of the bypass glacier on Slesse recently? I'm thinking of heading up there this weekend.

[J Mace]

Looked pretty awful 10 or so days ago, this weekend looks hot too....

Maybe consider the North Rib as a safer alternative.



Aug 13

[Squamishmonkey]

Yesterday...
View from the base.

View just before crossing to the buttress direct start.

View looking down the head wall.

View at the first gulley on the cross over descent.

[nerdalert]

Hi Eric, saw your video and just curious how you got to the toe of the buttress? Did you bushwhack across the meadow directly to the toe or come in via the Propeller Cairn somehow? Looks dicey!

[Squamishmonkey]

Hi,
We went up cross over pass descent trail for a few hundred meters and then cut diagonally down through open timber until it runs into the alder, bushwhack for 5min and you will be in the bowl.

As for the glacier, both sets are sending down blocks all day (fewer in the am) so its your call! It is definitely the riskiest part of the day.
Thanks
Eric

[tendollarpants]

I was up there on Sat & crossed the Bypass glacier to get to the 5.fun ramp.



Needless to say, it took way longer to cross over/under the pocket glacier than we were expecting.

[Optimally-Primed]

Wow. That looks horrendous!