first, his brother is an acknowledged anchor expert.
his cv is here:
tony agrees that robin's anchors are safe.
Robin buys 3/8" stainless steel bolts from Hilti.
The chains are galvanized steel with a breaking strength of 4,000 lbs.
Robin does not like to use Fixe anchors because they are expensive, over engineered and obstrusive.
Robin believes that anchors should be present but not visible from a distance. Unlike traditional climbing anchors, Barley's are dull or rock coloured and not as, Robin says, "a blight".
He explained that at belays where the climber can comfortably stand, and use two hands to set a rappel, he places one link free. The climber can anchor to one link and thread the rope through the same link. Otherwise, he places three free links, so that the climber can hang on one link and thread the rappel rope through the other.
I was glad I had the chance to talk with Robin. He was eager to share his thoughts, and would do so with anybody who has the time to ask.
I am also eager to read of others' opinions on his views.
I am not in regular contact with him, so please do not ask me to ask him. Go ahead and ask him yourself.
This post is an effort to share what he told me and I am open to hearing other points of view.
Finally, as a climber who does not set routes, i am always grateful to those who spend countless hours and money helping me enjoy climbing. Thank you.
Other than that, having the new insight you've just provided jefffski, Robin's anchors sound great. In the past, having trusted them less as they appear a little shady, I was always nonetheless grateful for and amazed by Robin's prolificacy.
After spending a summer in Skaha, if you don't appreciate Barley bolts, there's something wrong with ya!
RE: rope drag/far away anchors on wonderland
"Ton of rope drag having the bolts that far back from the edge too, probably better to use the tree there anyway..."
The easiest way i've found to reduce the drag is to run out the final wide crack, then the rope just runs straight down over the edge, no drag and safer for the second too, if you place pro in the final easy crack and your second falls off the bellycrawl they will swing into the trees for sure, whatever works for you i guess...
Here's a link to the interesting thread on cc.com, with pics:
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... Post902857
Galvanic corrosion appears to be to blame, that and a coated (non-stainless) hanger made by Kong. I don't think those were ever used much on Squamish new routes?
First two or three protection bolts on supercharger are pretty rusty.
Teetering on the brink of madness has some new stainless bolts - 1/4 inchers!
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