La Coalition

[Adam]

La Coalition
6 Pitches, 5.11+

First Ascent
August 2008
Damien Cote
Adam Hart

First Free Ascent
August 2008
P1- Damien Cote
P2- John Furneaux
P3- Adam Hart
P4- Damien Cote
P5- Matt Maddaloni
P6- Adam Hart

Rack
2 sets of Cams from Blue Alien to #3 Camalot
1 set nuts
1 #4 Camalot


Waiting in line for Rock On, I spotted a line that began just before the vertical section in the South Gully. With the help of Damien Cote, we were able to piece together steep cracks and hanging slabs up right of the Opal Wall. Pitches 1 to 5 where done ground up and all bolts were placed on lead.

Pitches 2, 3 and 5 offer spectacular climbing with a sting in the tail on pitch 5 offering a long steep finger corner with no feet and great gear.

Approach
Approach from Rock On trail in the South Gully.
Climb past the start of Rock On and begin on the
opposite wall high right of Mercy Street
with an easy ramp just before the vertical blockage in the gully

Escape
60 Meter rappel to ground from station 3 and 4.
Two 60 Metre rappels straight down from station 5 and 6.

I am new at this so I am not sure how to put a topo up. You can find one at www.climblife.blogspot.com

Have fun and enjoy the new route. It was a lot of fun putting it up and I look forward to many more.

Adam
www.poweroffood.com

[another matt]

This route is awesome, thanks Adam et all for the work. I climbed this last year at the end of the summer and had a great afternoon. A little of everything, fine situations in a rad atmosphere.

One little bit of gear beta (if you are asking), on pitch two I would try and get a small tcu in between the second and third bolt. I didn't and regretted it when I got mildly sketched at the crux because I couldn't stop thinking about hitting the big ledge below.

Once again, thanks Adam.

[Adam]

Glad to here you liked the route. Hope there are more peeps getting on it. It has the potential to be a long standing route if climbers are worthy of a go.

Adam

[Peter]

Thanx for the route. We just did it. A few comments: 3 pitches are worthwile: 2,4,5. The 3rd is ok, the other 2 not so good, but they get you where you are going. Thought the crux pitch was mainly 11b with one 11c move, didn't use ring locks once, and there is some feet. It would be nice if the stations were upgraded with chain as opposed to cord directly on hangers. Again thanx for the efforts in putting it up as it's a good option for these hot days. Lastly I've sent the topo to Gary here and Quickdraw Publications for easy access........

[Adam]

Happy to hear you enjoyed the route. Looking forward to more people getting on it. One question....was it clean enough?

A little lazy craging this season, but I will get back on it to fix all the anchors with chains soon.

Adam