New Sully's Hangout Topo (Version 1.11)

[psi4ce]

Hey kids

We've posted a new Sully's Hangout topo. This new version is 1.11. You can download it in the Maps, Crags & Topos area.

Changes:

1) Improved route numbering (removed the dumb-a$% letter codes, now just straight numerical sequence across the crag from left to right).
2) Added north end projects (routes #2 & #3)
3) Added Rolf's new route Serene and gave it a couple of stars (route #12)
4) Gave Lefty a single star (heh heh heh)
5) Wrestled with dual-column formatting and finally threw it down victorious
6) Completely updated the access information and included gate warnings and other important info

It looks like the font didn't render as well as it has before when generating the PDF so let me know if it is hard to read or looks weird when printed. The time may be coming when the "Boopee" font gets sacked in favour of something more traditional...

[5.4 Slayer]

I believe "The Challenger" (19) has been sent, goes at approx. 12a
and "In The Bubble" had some holds ripped off (thanks for that one Chris) and probably goes at 12c???? Anyone sent it lately?

[psi4ce]

I'll check on the In the Bubble situation but uh... last time I was up there a week or two ago Challenger still had a red tape on the first bolt. I know people have been on Challenger which isn't surprising, but I think the only person who can actually "send" it is the route developer on the FA. Until then it remains a project. I'll check on that too.

[5.4 Slayer]

hmmm, last time I talked to Shaun it was good to go.

[psi4ce]

Thanks for the heads up. The email to Shaun is already out.

We might need a new version 1.12 shortly...

[sandBag]

Im not sure where to start on this one, routes take time and money to put up! I have not said much on the issue of getting on routes with a red/orange tag on the first bolt, maybe I should have...

For all those who don't know and should know but choose to ignore them, The route is a project and unless the person who is putting up the route says its ok, STAY OFF intil the orange tag is removed and it has been posted that the route has been FA'd!

For this route in particular, there was a safety reason as why it took me so long to start working the route. I moved the last bolt and the route finishes on Wingman anchors do to sharp edges at the lip. I was aware that the route was climbed last summer and I know by who. That was before I had to move the bolt and without my permission.

The route is now called Back Door Party and goes at 12a. I will remove the orange tag next time im up there.


sandbag.

[sandBag]

Last comment was for the Challenger (19)

[dakine]

Have you or anyone been on "in the bubble" this year Shaun? I tore off a key hold about 1/2 to 3/4's up and it felt a good deal harder after...

[psi4ce]

The route is a project and unless the person who is putting up the route says its ok, STAY OFF intil the orange tag is removed and it has been posted that the route has been FA'd!

You heard the man, people. Project scooping is not cool!!!

For my project Lefty, I spent close to 20 hours hours cleaning it in the rain and in the dirt. Then I invested close to $100 in hardware which was installed on another rainy day and I clearly red-taped the first bolt. Later, on the day when I went up to do the FA, there were a couple of kids climbing it and I actually had to WAIT to do my own freakin' FA. I was not amused but decided not to freak out and to take their word for it that they didn't know what the red tape meant.

[sandBag]

I will get on it next time im up and see which hold came off, I know a hold broke at the 2nd bolt a last summer, still thought it to be 12b but if another hold came off might definitly be harder,

thanks for the update

[anthonie]

I tried Hindu Two Routes Variation a couple days ago and got my butt kicked. It feels way harder than .11b. Am I missing something? The Hindu Two Routes itself is an awesome, technical, sustained climb that's hard for the grade and deserves a star or two. I've seen a couple climbers took big whippers on this one.

[mr_staggerlee]

anthonie -- if you were missing something I couldn't find it -- I also got my butt kicked on the variation.

RE: Serene

GREAT route -- however, there was only two regular (not rap) anchors with a single draw at the top. I left a heavy quick-link on the top as well so people have two points to lower from.

Is there a plan to update this anchor -- if I knew how I would volunteer -- hence I left a piece of hardware at the top as a temporizing measure.

g

p.s. Should we start a poll to guess how long until some donkey-f$%# says "hey look - booty at the top of the climb!" ... and then walks to the top to grab it ......

[sandBag]

hey anthonie

great to hear someone has tried this route, i think a hold broke downlow since i did the route, will try again to confirm, could be harder then 11b now.

yeh the top is tricky and pumpy, once you know how to tackle the wide upper crack it feels easier,

cheers,
sb[/quote]

[sandBag]

I tried Hindu Two Routes again and yes it is harder then I remember, probably 11c/d, committing as well

part of the problem is you get used to an area and the routes start to feel easy, you get them dialed

anthonie, what did you think the easier version of this routes goes at, is 10d a bit of a sandbag, thought the high crux was hard for the grade.

cheers,

[Axel]

I climbed it a few weeks ago and thought it was pretty hard for 10d. I did it after I did "My one muscle" and thought that "muscle" was the easier of the two.

I would bump it up a notch or two. Great line regardless of the grade. I really enjoyed it. Good eye.

Axel