New Life 5.11b (?) route info

[harihari]

Here's route info for New Life. I can't find the official topo anywhere. Enjoy-- great route! Feel free to comment etc etc.

http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com/2009 ... -511b.html

[dgauley]

There is a topo in the new route book at climb on.
The first ascent was Trevor Macdonald, and Jim Martinello. The grades they gave it go at 10a,11c,10c,10c,10b.
Great route. The best way to descend is to climb up and right up a few fixed lines to access astro ledge. Then do some cragging up there and rap from the top of ak highway, 3 5om raps to the ground, or top out on the calling.

[harihari]

There is a topo in the new route book at climb on.
The first ascent was Trevor Macdonald, and Jim Martinello. The grades they gave it go at 10a,11c,10c,10c,10b.
Great route. The best way to descend is to climb up and right up a few fixed lines to access astro ledge. Then do some cragging up there and rap from the top of ak highway, 3 5om raps to the ground, or top out on the calling.

Thanks for the input-- I added these to the route description on my blog.

The grades sound right except for the 4th pitch. I wonder about the FAs grading their routes-- when you build a route, you end up spending so much time cleaning and rehearsing that things often seem easier than they are for somebody trying to climb it on-sight. I would say that P4 is 11b, maybe 11a-- it is not burly at all (all your weight is on your feet) but it is weird, not obvious at all, and quite technical. But whatever-- it's a GREAT route, more folks should do it!