DOA?

[paulc]

Thinking of checking it out.

Anyone done it?
Doubles required?
Looks like some thin gear on the first large corner then?

I found some beta on 8a, but could likely use more.

I might try one of the more direct variations (except that they are all harder...) to keep the drag down since it looks like TRing this beast would suck all the way around.

P

[Jason Kruk]

Can be done with a single rope, but don't be shy with your slingage. A double shoulder-length sling is very useful to extend your first piece in the upper corner. If you do a good job extending the pieces that require it, a second can clean on toprope fine.

The Ghost is easier to manage rope wise, and also very excellent.

[paulc]

Hey Jason;

Thanks for the single rope beta. You got any gear beta?

So far planning for a typical Murrin thin-fest. RPs and 00-red TCU in at least doubles.

Cheers

Paul

[Jason Kruk]

Hopefully you have already sent by now, if not, a double set up to singles of hand and big-hand sized gear would work well. The pitch takes quite a variety.


J

[5.4 Slayer]

How'd it go yesterday Paul?

[paulc]

eh, DOA was wet at the top, bit of a spray waterfall onto the belayer (kinda nice actually).

Did Take no Prisoners instead (same corner system then out L under the roof to some discontinuous cracks to the chains. One bolt at the bottom then gear for the rest. Great climbing, really cool movement and features. Tiny gear.... Scared... took a couple of falls onto a #4 nut, finally popped the screamer (see facebook) and bailed with a wee finger injury. went back up and cruxed above 3 00 TCUs in a row. Largest piece was a red camalot.

No sending, much hanging. bit of falling, quite a bit of whimpering... And some really patient belaying (thanks tom and mike).

Should go pretty quick now that I know not to bring the 2x 2 and 3 camalots that I had. I used triples of everything up to yellow TCU and a couple of small nuts.

Will have to come back to it after Scotland and Paris.... kinda sad, but hmmmm, Scotch...

Paul

[paulc]

almost forgot, did Youth Gone Wild earlier in the day too. woohoo.

P