Camping at Stawamus. Chief questions

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
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Kevlar
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Camping at Stawamus. Chief questions

Post by Kevlar » Wed Apr 01, 2009 11:27 am

Im staying for a month in squamish in july. What is the gear storage situation at the campground or does everyone generally leave stuff in tents because i have read there is a theft problem (correct me if im wrong).

What are the easiest routes the chief has to offer during july?

JSmith
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Post by JSmith » Wed Apr 01, 2009 12:57 pm

Kevlar;
People generally leave their gear in the tent or in the car. There are also small bear boxes for food in which you could also leave smaller valuables. It's pretty rare that anything is stolen from a closed tent but it has happened. Most of the theft problem is preventable. Don't leave your iPod or laptop on the dash of your car. Cover your gear with an old blanket. I have actually seen people breaking into cars at the Chief parking lot (from the top of the pillar). They just drove right next to cars looked inside and smashed the windows of anyone who had anything sitting out.
As far as easy routes, there are many, starting around 5.5-5.6ish. You'll probably want to start early to avoid the sun.
J.

pinner
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Post by pinner » Thu Apr 02, 2009 9:37 pm

Hey Kevlar, by "easy routes the chief has to offer" are you thinking single pitch, long routes, or full-height... or any of the above?

Kevlar
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Post by Kevlar » Sat Apr 04, 2009 11:42 am

any of the above

pinner
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Post by pinner » Sat Apr 04, 2009 4:26 pm

Well, the easiest full height route will be closed when you're here due to falcon nesting - Europa 5.8, a new and contoversial route; do a search for the thread if you feel like doing some reading.

The Ultimate Everything at 10b is next easiest to the top, and the 18 pitch sport link up of Stairway to Heaven through the Bulletheads (right beside the campground, no excuses for a late start!) and across the Black Dyke I believe goes at the same grade (haven't climbed that one, so don't quote me).

For shorter multipitch/linkups there are several more moderate options in the Bulletheads, while the Apron has dozens of moderate routes, some of the more popular being Diedre 5.8 (a sh*t show of a hundred climbers and their grandmas on many days, but a quality route if you find it free) Banana Peel 5.7, Snake 5.9 and Sparrow 5.9

Basically if you grab the guidebook when you get here the book will tell you everything I just did....

Plus list hundreds of single pitch routes too

Maybe order it online before you get here? The Kevin McLane guide (Elaho publishing) is the complete guide to the Squamish area, while Bourdon's Squamish Select will guide you to the more popular areas, plus a bunch of stuff north of Squam on the way to Whistler (and I think it has some bouldering info? Bourdon also authors the separate bouldering guide...). If you're staying at the chief camground, or enjoy some more historical accounting and anecdotes with your topos, I'd suggest the McLane guide.

Or maybe you've been here before and I'm typing for nothing... in which case, sorry!

Kevlar
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Post by Kevlar » Sun Apr 05, 2009 12:48 pm

Is the ultimate everything 100% sport? or mixed?

No, really, thanks for all this help. A friend (17) and i (16) are arriving late june from wisconsin and planning leaving to continue our roadtrip late july early august.
Any information is greatly appreciated. feel free to spew whatever you think is necessary.

Meeting up with someone for a few days would really be nice. were 5.12 sport, moderate trad, v6/7 boulders.

Kevlar
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Credit Card

Post by Kevlar » Wed Apr 15, 2009 5:15 pm

Is MasterCard excepted just aabout everywhere throughout squamish?

Is there alot of climbing located within walking distance of Stawamus campground?

JSmith
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Post by JSmith » Wed Apr 15, 2009 8:53 pm

1. Yes.
2. More than can be climbed in a lifetime.
Also Ultimate Everything is mostly trad with a few bolts.

smallman
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Post by smallman » Wed Apr 15, 2009 9:03 pm

Hey Kevlar:
In Canada the major climbing areas are not located in the boondocks like most of the areas I have been to in the USA (exceptions Leavenworth and Red rocks). Squamish is suburban climbing at its finest. You will find a lifetime worth of climbing within biking or walking distance of the campground.

jefffski
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Post by jefffski » Thu Apr 16, 2009 11:38 pm

the first pitch of ue has one awkward move, maybe 10a. beta helps there.
the third, sixth and eighth pitches have awkward/delicate 5.9 moves; only the sixth is trad. the last pitch has one or two strenuous moves but take good gear--easy to rest.

All other trad moves are easier.

hans
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Post by hans » Fri Apr 17, 2009 7:54 pm

If you can climb 5.12 sport and boulder v6/7, then don't bother with UE. It's really quite easy, and not that great of climbing. Angels Crest isn't much harder, and is a much better route IMO. The Grand Wall is outstanding at 11a, and is definitely not a sandbag. It's strenuous, but otherwise not difficult, and takes great gear everywhere. Millenium Falcon is nice, and if you can handle those then try Freeway (assuming the falcon closures aren't in place when you're there). Pick up a guidebook and go for the classic routes. Have fun.

pinner
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Post by pinner » Mon Apr 20, 2009 12:51 pm

Hey Kevlar, if you're a strong sport climber and feel like getting off the cracks and slab for awhile then you'll probably spend a fair bit of time up at Chek Canyon too, about 20 min. north of Squamish on the highway. This is the main sport area "in" Squamish, with lots of routes in the 11-12 range (and up to 14). There is an area to camp up there too, but it's not a campground so there are no facilities. This area is not covered in McLane's Climbers Guide to Squamish, is in his Whistler guide, but is best covered in the Squamish Select guide by Bourdon

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Re: Camping at Stawamus. Chief questions

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