Mank Patrol

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
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JSmith
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Mank Patrol

Post by JSmith » Wed Apr 01, 2009 12:47 pm

Hi everybody;

The S.A.S. is looking to create a list of manky anchors, rap stations, even rusted bolts in Squamish. If you've come across some mank, post up the location here.

For example;
The anchors of Finger Lickin' Good are chains and washers with no hangers and are eroding the rock.

In the gully right of Picket Line there's a tree with lot's of old webbing and rap rings that's sketchy.

The third Bolt on Eurasian Eyes is really rusted.

Thanks for the help!

J. Smith

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Cloudraker
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Post by Cloudraker » Thu Apr 02, 2009 8:40 am

3rd pitch of Dream On (10d leading up to overlap) had some old, rusty quarter inch bolts. Also, from what I remember the anchor after the crux 11b pitch on Unfinished Symphony consisted of some dicey old bolts with spinning hangers.

And then there is the old rap station at the top of the Acrophobes with the spinning hangers and old tat - maybe these have been replaced since I was last up there?

mirth
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Post by mirth » Thu Apr 02, 2009 5:21 pm

last bolt before the chains on yellow beard is too short for the hanger +nut stack up. The nut doesnt fully engage and fell off with the hanger. Last summer I tightened it, but it may not stay on.

smallman
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crappy anchors.

Post by smallman » Fri Apr 03, 2009 5:01 pm

Wow. This could be a huge list.

The second pitch of Supernatural on the Squaw (Lady) has two pins which are half hanging out of the crack and a rivet first bolt half eroded out of the rock. It is fully scary now.

Pixie Corner and all the climbs at Burgers and Fries should have rap anchors or chains.

Holiday in cambodia at Murrin could use chains.

The moderate trade routes in the Bluffs (except maybe Penny Lane) should have proper rap anchors ( rap hangers or chains). I put rap hangers on Cat Crack to help some of these along.

Also any Barley two link chain POS anchor.

Let me know if you need any help in this work. I will be happy to volunteer the use of my drill and time to this worthwhile endeavor.

smallman
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crappy anchors.

Post by smallman » Fri Apr 03, 2009 5:02 pm

Wow. This could be a huge list.

The second pitch of Supernatural on the Squaw (Lady) has two pins which are half hanging out of the crack and a rivet first bolt half eroded out of the rock. It is fully scary now.

Pixie Corner and all the climbs at Burgers and Fries should have rap anchors or chains.

Holiday in cambodia at Murrin could use chains.

The moderate trade routes in the Bluffs (except maybe Penny Lane) should have proper rap anchors ( rap hangers or chains). I put rap hangers on Cat Crack to help some of these along.

Also any Barley two link chain POS anchor.

Let me know if you need any help in this work. I will be happy to volunteer the use of my drill and time to this worthwhile endeavor.

Marty
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Post by Marty » Sun Apr 05, 2009 8:18 pm

Climbed Sparky over in the Upper Malamute today. The anchor station is missing one of its hangers. The bolt is still nicely in the rock with its threads waiting for a hanger. Looked over at the anchors on Arm Yourself, and these are also missing a hanger.

Just started climbing last year and have never played with setting up bolted anchors. Would love to help but don't want to do something stupid.

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Post by Cloudraker » Mon Apr 06, 2009 8:20 am

What's the deal with those home-made chain anchors plastered all over the Apron? You know the ones consisting of a chain between two offset bolts, one of which has a hanger and the other just has a washer that keeps the chain in place?

I can't think of any that are in 'bad' shape but if SAS is going all out then these could be replaced with 'modern' anchors capable of supporting the throngs of people who will be on the stone this spring and summer. Scoops and Delicious Dimples (whatever that route is called?) on the South Apron has one of these anchors about midway up the route.

smallman
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Post by smallman » Tue Apr 07, 2009 9:00 pm

The washer/ chain set-up is a classic "Robin Barley" set-up. Another which you see on lots of new Robin Barley routes in the Smoke Bluffs which is worse is two two link chains which you can't clip two locking biners in simultaneously to to secure yourself prior to rapping. The chain/ stacked washer set-up is highly prone to freeze thaw action in the winter too because there is no hanger there to block some of the rain from entering the bolt hole. Oh well, he does put up a sh*t load of new routes. Although, I think Fixe rap rings are just as cheap as chain.

the alpine scrub
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Post by the alpine scrub » Mon Apr 13, 2009 7:31 pm

Tail Wind at bughouse heights is missing a hanger just past the horizontal ledge, and the midway anchor (??) for it and the route to the right (Sting in the Tail) is the washer/chain style.

mcfly
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Post by mcfly » Tue Apr 14, 2009 5:49 pm

Survival of the Flatus - replace 1/4" bolts and old piton
Magic Carpet Ride & Not Your Normal Nightmare - replace 1/4" bolts
(Not sure if this has been done already)

I'm sure I will remember more later...

jefffski
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Post by jefffski » Thu Apr 16, 2009 11:46 pm

one of those Rob'-on Boring routes that has one of those "it's alpine--whatever will get me down"/"I'm creative, not safe" anchors, is next to Fata Morgana--35 m hard 10b. It's a new or reworked route.

I'm critical of the guy because there is often no way of knowing which routes have those anchors. If I knew in advance, then I could choose not to climb the it.

This list is a good idea. Thanks.

paulc
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Post by paulc » Sun Apr 19, 2009 10:17 pm

Good thing to start.

My turn.

All the anchors at Split Beaver need an overhaul for hangers/rings.
The pin on Claimjumper at Nightmare is sketch (and PeterC was ok with it being replaced with a bolt when we asked last year...)
Anchor on Crystal ball (or the L variation to it anyhow) at the Zip could use a clean up
Mr O clock at Milkmans wall has a hanger missing on the anchor

On the subject of anchor clean up, I think I am going to do a trundle job at the top of Brunser Overhang, all the cracks at the top that people might use for an anchor are flexing flakes. You really want to go off the trees at the back about 15ft back from the edge, which sucks, but? Perhaps another good candidate for a retro-anchor.

Paul

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Post by pinner » Mon Apr 20, 2009 4:55 pm

Great initiative! A message for jefffski and any others wishing to avoid those two-link anchors; check the FA in the guide - if it's Robin Barley, it's likely "one of those". They're not my favourite either, but there are literally hundreds, if not thousands, of routes locally and even more so in Skaha that Barley has put up, so I'm not complaining.

smallman
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bad anchors

Post by smallman » Mon Apr 20, 2009 7:29 pm

Speaking of initiative- maybe we should all try to bring on some good karma by taking a couple of rap hangers and a wrench with us to replace some these anchors especially on the good routes. Think of it as an investment in safety and in your fellow climbers. it is only ten bucks for 2 fixe rings. If everyone did this there would be way less mank around.

pinner
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Post by pinner » Tue Apr 21, 2009 7:37 am

Would this work on the Barley anchors? i haven't looked closely at one for some time now, and can't recall if they are 3/8" nuts holding the washers on or something else.... probably an indictment of either my laxness on climbs lately or my unwillingness to deal with acknowledging less than ideal anchors I'm hanging my loved ones from. : :shock: :D

and do we want to use the bolts that have been placed in such a manner, as they often have that drilled out groove below them to accommodate a chain link?

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