Bugaboos!

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
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Brittnany
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Bugaboos!

Post by Brittnany » Sun Aug 03, 2008 10:45 pm

Hey everyone!
I am heading to the bugaboos August 23 (ish). My friend and I are taking the bus to radium, and from there dont have a way up. We are coming from Squamish. Is anyone going around that time, from either west or east. Even if we could meet you in Radium (or the turnoff from the main highway) and then get a ride up.... send me an email.
thanks
brit_ah(at)hotmail.com
Brittany

Aaron
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Post by Aaron » Mon Aug 04, 2008 1:13 pm

I just sent you an E-mail if you've faild to recieve it RSVP to slave_to_gravity@hotmail.com
Sincerly, Aaron Kristiansen.
WTF?

glomeruli
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Post by glomeruli » Tue Aug 05, 2008 10:10 pm

heading up around the same time, 23/24ish. email me closer to the date at ddharney at hotmail and i may be able to help you out

glomeruli
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Post by glomeruli » Thu Aug 14, 2008 5:45 pm

i've been reading about problems in the bugaboo parking lot with animals chewing at brakelines, tires, etc and the use of chicken wire fences for protection. i've even seen pics of this on you tube.


does anyone know if there are fences available in the parking lot or if people bring their own?????

Tenn
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Post by Tenn » Thu Aug 14, 2008 7:44 pm

Its standard to wrap your car in chicken wire at the bugs parking. Just spoke to a dude who said it was so busy that he really had to scrounge for chicken wire. Might be worth donating some.

c-plus
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Post by c-plus » Fri Aug 15, 2008 10:03 am

normally there's enough chicken wire and wooden posts (to keep the wire up against your car) for everyone. however, we left yesterday and the parking lot was very full. if you're worried, you could always bring your own...

glomeruli
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Post by glomeruli » Fri Aug 15, 2008 1:00 pm

thanks,
any other tips for a first time bugs visitor??

c-plus
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Post by c-plus » Fri Aug 15, 2008 5:17 pm

the kain route on bug spire and the west ridge of pigeon spire are definately 2 of the most popular moderate classics and are a lot of fun.

that being said, many of the routes are pretty long when you include the approach and descent. plus, some routes are very exposed. not exactly the best place for your first multipitch if you get my drift...

Dru
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Post by Dru » Tue Aug 19, 2008 1:21 pm

Late August and September can be snowy and/or very cold in the Bugs.

If you get snowed out, the Valhallas make a good plan B - 2,000 feet lower in elevation and further south = warmer

boot
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Post by boot » Thu Aug 21, 2008 1:14 pm

Obviously pack light, but bring a full rack if you want to do any of the more difficult climbs. And double up on 1"-2" stuff. If you're camping prepare for a steep 3-4 hour hike to Appleby campground. If you're staying at the hut, you dont need cooking utensils or a stove, just your sleeping bag. Photocopy the routes you want to do. ALWAYS bring a torch with new batteries and a good dry warm shell on your day treks. You should have some kind of waterproof hikers, cramp-ons and an axe if you want to head up the col, you can leave them at the top. Wear a lid.

The bugs are intimidating on first visit, maybe warm up on Lions Way, or Mctech Aret. Definitely climb the NE ridge of Bugaboo spire, it's awesome but leave very early. For the Pigeon West Ridge(A must do), it is mostly class 3 but switch to comfortable climbing shoes when you get on the rock.

Hope this helps, have fun!! its a beautiful place.

Dru
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Post by Dru » Thu Aug 28, 2008 7:25 am

Heard there was a snowstorm and a rescue in the Bugs yesterday - hope it wasn't you.

glomeruli
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Post by glomeruli » Thu Aug 28, 2008 12:59 pm

no it wasn't us. our trip was shortened due to weather but we did manage to climb a bit on cresent spire


met 2 back at applebee who spent the night on the bug-snowpatch col and they told us of another 4-6 who spent the night in the rain/snow near the summit after climbing the north east ridge. the 2 who spent the night at the col had left camp at about 4-5:00am but got stuck behind a couple of slow/chatty parties. i believe it was the chatty parties who were benighted. we saw a couple of them rapping past the gendarme the next afternoon (not sure if they had to wait so late because new snow/ice made travel unsafe until it melted a bit?). anyway watched as the helicopter buzzed by a few times and heard the ranger's radio as they spotted 5 coming down on their own steam. not sure their condition or if there was indeed a 6th.


there were at least 50 cars in the parking lot when we headed up. don't know if the high number of people contributed to many parties being on the northeast route, but if this happens often it may give the park/rangers cause to restrict the number of visitors as previously mentioned on another post.

J Mace
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Post by J Mace » Thu Aug 28, 2008 4:41 pm

there were at least 50 cars in the parking lot when we headed up.
Thats just obscene

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