6 Pitches, 5.11+
First Free Ascent
P1- Damien Cote
P2- John Furneaux
P3- Adam Hart
P4- Damien Cote
P5- Matt Maddaloni
P6- Adam Hart
2 sets of Cams from Blue Alien to #3 Camalot
1 set nuts
1 #4 Camalot
Waiting in line for Rock On, I spotted a line that began just before the vertical section in the South Gully. With the help of Damien Cote, we were able to piece together steep cracks and hanging slabs up right of the Opal Wall. Pitches 1 to 5 where done ground up and all bolts were placed on lead.
Pitches 2, 3 and 5 offer spectacular climbing with a sting in the tail on pitch 5 offering a long steep finger corner with no feet and great gear.
Approach from Rock On trail in the South Gully.
Climb past the start of Rock On and begin on the
opposite wall high right of Mercy Street
with an easy ramp just before the vertical blockage in the gully
60 Meter rappel to ground from station 3 and 4.
Two 60 Metre rappels straight down from station 5 and 6.
I am new at this so I am not sure how to put a topo up. You can find one at www.climblife.blogspot.com
Have fun and enjoy the new route. It was a lot of fun putting it up and I look forward to many more.
One little bit of gear beta (if you are asking), on pitch two I would try and get a small tcu in between the second and third bolt. I didn't and regretted it when I got mildly sketched at the crux because I couldn't stop thinking about hitting the big ledge below.
Once again, thanks Adam.
A little lazy craging this season, but I will get back on it to fix all the anchors with chains soon.
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