What is typical squamish climbing?

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
Post Reply
evad
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed May 16, 2012 7:15 pm

What is typical squamish climbing?

Post by evad » Wed May 16, 2012 7:24 pm

I'm a fairly new climber and am thinking about making a trip up there this summer (mostly to beat the Texas heat). I'm not a big fan of slab (only climbed it once, scared the crap out of me) - are there any <= 5.10 sport single or multi pitch climbs worth going for that aren't slab?

Mostly I've climbed limestone so far, so I think Squamish will be very different, in a lot of ways.

Dru
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 396
Joined: Fri Sep 07, 2007 2:00 pm
Location: Chillidog

Re: What is typical squamish climbing?

Post by Dru » Wed May 16, 2012 7:36 pm

Typical Squamish climbing is somewhat less than vertical non-splitter cracks and friction. You're gonna hate it.

User avatar
psi4ce
Full Member
Full Member
Posts: 167
Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 4:29 pm
Location: Squamish

Re: What is typical squamish climbing?

Post by psi4ce » Wed May 16, 2012 8:25 pm

Come on up and climb some slab.

It'll build character.

smallman
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 267
Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2008 6:45 pm

Re: What is typical squamish climbing?

Post by smallman » Wed May 16, 2012 9:07 pm

If you have been to El Potrero... well, Squamish is pretty much the exact opposite in terms of multi-pitch routes. And the sport climbs here tend to be crimpy and technical. You may find the Canadian Rockies sport climbing more your style.

User avatar
psi4ce
Full Member
Full Member
Posts: 167
Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 4:29 pm
Location: Squamish

Re: What is typical squamish climbing?

Post by psi4ce » Wed May 16, 2012 9:46 pm

I'm just posting this so I can have exactly the same number of posts as Smallman.

User avatar
squamish climber
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 694
Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:42 pm
Location: Bowen Island

Re: What is typical squamish climbing?

Post by squamish climber » Thu May 17, 2012 8:32 am

Nobody who comes to Squamish 'hates it', but you might experience some frustration at first if you are not used to climbing compact granite and stellar cracks. While the crack climbing is Squamish's calling card, the great thing about the place is that you can try nearly all types of climbing at Squamish -- including steep sport climbs, bouldering and aid. You will probably find all the sport climbing you can handle on steep rock up the road at Chek. Like this climb
Gom Jabbar 13c
photo credit: Mike Cowper
Image

And at Murrin Park there is Pet Wall - home of steep sport climbs. New route development is going on in the area on Quercus Wall. Apparently Sonnie Trotter just put up 'Nothing in Moderation’ at 5.13c.

So my advice - come to the 'coolest' summer climbing area in North America. Climb beside giant fir and cedar trees with an ocean breeze, the only thing you'll have to wish for is no-rain. In which case head to Skaha three hours east in the Okanagan -- Canada's only so-called desert.
Dave Jones - site admin
When you reach the top, keep climbing -- Zen proverb

MarkR
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 88
Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2010 7:52 pm

Re: What is typical squamish climbing?

Post by MarkR » Thu May 17, 2012 2:34 pm

Sport isn't really Squamish's thing. Yes, there is some great sport, but there's not that much selection, and the number of worthy sport climbs at a 5.10 or below level is pretty dire. As a result those routes tend to get pretty gang-raped in the summer.

Non-slab sport multipitch routes exist, but they are rare and short.

My advice? Get a rack, get a pad, or get stronger.

staven
Full Member
Full Member
Posts: 108
Joined: Mon May 17, 2010 9:47 pm

Re: What is typical squamish climbing?

Post by staven » Thu May 17, 2012 8:29 pm

There are plenty of sport routes to keep you busy, but most of them are a little outside of town (Chuck-Chuck Creek, Clint Eastwood, Chek, Area 44, Rogue's Gallery, Nordic, Soo Valley, Green River Bastion, etc) These range from 20 minutes to a 1h drive, and all have less than a half hour approach. Chek is awesome, but insane busy on sunny weekends. The rest will be less populated, and you may be alone at some. In town sport crags are few, but Fern Hill and the Crumpit Woods crags should keep you busy for a few days or more. Worth a visit for sure. Pet wall if you're feeling strong. All these areas are on good rock, well-bolted, rap stations on top, wide grade range. No slab.

I started climbing in Squamish with nothing but a rope and 12 draws. I wandered around aimlessly like this for a few years until I got a rack and some good friends to learn from. Squamish is so much better with trad, and your options will be 10x that of sport, but you will not be disappointed if you come. Tonnes of people from Vancouver come up every weekend and a large portion of them only climb sport. Maybe you could hook up with some of them.

Come for sure, it will be fun.

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests