What is typical squamish climbing?

[evad]

I'm a fairly new climber and am thinking about making a trip up there this summer (mostly to beat the Texas heat). I'm not a big fan of slab (only climbed it once, scared the crap out of me) - are there any <= 5.10 sport single or multi pitch climbs worth going for that aren't slab?

Mostly I've climbed limestone so far, so I think Squamish will be very different, in a lot of ways.

[Dru]

Typical Squamish climbing is somewhat less than vertical non-splitter cracks and friction. You're gonna hate it.

[psi4ce]

Come on up and climb some slab.

It'll build character.

[smallman]

If you have been to El Potrero... well, Squamish is pretty much the exact opposite in terms of multi-pitch routes. And the sport climbs here tend to be crimpy and technical. You may find the Canadian Rockies sport climbing more your style.

[psi4ce]

I'm just posting this so I can have exactly the same number of posts as Smallman.

[squamish climber]

Nobody who comes to Squamish 'hates it', but you might experience some frustration at first if you are not used to climbing compact granite and stellar cracks. While the crack climbing is Squamish's calling card, the great thing about the place is that you can try nearly all types of climbing at Squamish -- including steep sport climbs, bouldering and aid. You will probably find all the sport climbing you can handle on steep rock up the road at Chek. Like this climb
Gom Jabbar 13c
photo credit: Mike Cowper


And at Murrin Park there is Pet Wall - home of steep sport climbs. New route development is going on in the area on Quercus Wall. Apparently Sonnie Trotter just put up 'Nothing in Moderation’ at 5.13c.

So my advice - come to the 'coolest' summer climbing area in North America. Climb beside giant fir and cedar trees with an ocean breeze, the only thing you'll have to wish for is no-rain. In which case head to Skaha three hours east in the Okanagan -- Canada's only so-called desert.

[MarkR]

Sport isn't really Squamish's thing. Yes, there is some great sport, but there's not that much selection, and the number of worthy sport climbs at a 5.10 or below level is pretty dire. As a result those routes tend to get pretty gang-raped in the summer.

Non-slab sport multipitch routes exist, but they are rare and short.

My advice? Get a rack, get a pad, or get stronger.

[staven]

There are plenty of sport routes to keep you busy, but most of them are a little outside of town (Chuck-Chuck Creek, Clint Eastwood, Chek, Area 44, Rogue's Gallery, Nordic, Soo Valley, Green River Bastion, etc) These range from 20 minutes to a 1h drive, and all have less than a half hour approach. Chek is awesome, but insane busy on sunny weekends. The rest will be less populated, and you may be alone at some. In town sport crags are few, but Fern Hill and the Crumpit Woods crags should keep you busy for a few days or more. Worth a visit for sure. Pet wall if you're feeling strong. All these areas are on good rock, well-bolted, rap stations on top, wide grade range. No slab.

I started climbing in Squamish with nothing but a rope and 12 draws. I wandered around aimlessly like this for a few years until I got a rack and some good friends to learn from. Squamish is so much better with trad, and your options will be 10x that of sport, but you will not be disappointed if you come. Tonnes of people from Vancouver come up every weekend and a large portion of them only climb sport. Maybe you could hook up with some of them.

Come for sure, it will be fun.