I've been meaning to get up there and replace rusty anchors and give the poor thing a general tidy for some time now. Between work commitments, shoulder surgery and general decrepitude, it's been hard to get to it. One more week of work and I'm finally on it. Stainless hardware throughout including 1/2" with stainless rap links at all belays. Will try to get this work done midweek so as not to impede traffic. Ditto for Mata Hari belay anchor and Daily Planet.
Also, I have a tub of "hole repair" stuff, if you need something to plug old holes and scars. I might even be persuaded to carry it up and help - somehow we should be able to get to the Pillar. I can put my walker in 4WD, maybe.
i don't have time to read through all the responses, so i don't know if these routes were already mentioned, but here's a few i've come across:
- Bravado (awesome route that gets very little traffic. All the bolts are sketch except 1 a the crux)
- Archives and Technical Ecstasy (side-by-side in the boulders). Both great but scary 20+ yr old bolts
- Savage Amusement beside Zombie Roof. The bolts are 20+ yrs old, but covered in glue so you can't tell what they are like under the glue? they aren't "nice".
i would retro bolt some of the above but i'm only in town for 1 week (and it's raining), and i just found out my drill is broken?! >:(
PS. did you do that route RP in Ontario? i just did it last week and wasn't sure if you did the FA or Sonnie did?
Imagining the fall if that rope were to blow gives me the shivers.
I noticed them when trying to get into there (cause i almost grabbed one) and then on my way up I stepped on one accidentally and almost knocked it onto my belayer. I had to fumble it with my foot to keep it from coming out and eventually got it to sit there.
They are guidebook sized flakes, could fit in a bag nicely. We finished the pillar at like 10:45 and got out of there while we could still see so we didn't have time to do anything about it.. but someone is definetly gonna toss eventually and hopefully no one is underneath when it happens.
I was up on White Lightning today and the 2nd bolt after the overlap (10b pitch) is coming out of the rock. I beat it down with my biner but with a little tug it pulled out again about 1-2 cms. Not really confidence building.
The SAS has now completed 3 big phases of manky anchor/bolt replacement and guides are in the process of completing Phase 4.
Here's a non-exaustive list of completed projects just from Phase 3;
Peaches and Cream
And Metal For All
Big Daddy Overhang
100's new Permadraws at Check
The Voodoo You Do
Keep those reports coming either here or at squamishaccess.ca
Second bolt on Jacobs Ladder next to Zombie Roof spins in the rock.
Anchor bolt ending the first proper pitch of Freeway was spinning in the rock still back in September.
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