Mank Patrol

[pbeckham]

Re: Cruel Shoes,
I've been meaning to get up there and replace rusty anchors and give the poor thing a general tidy for some time now. Between work commitments, shoulder surgery and general decrepitude, it's been hard to get to it. One more week of work and I'm finally on it. Stainless hardware throughout including 1/2" with stainless rap links at all belays. Will try to get this work done midweek so as not to impede traffic. Ditto for Mata Hari belay anchor and Daily Planet.

PB

[fist crack]

Hey PB
I have a wack of 12mm ss bolts for your rebolting efforts, I'm just low on hangers,
give me a shout and I will give you a bunch.

KH

[pbeckham]

Thanks KH, doing alright for bolts and hangers, could use a rope gun though!

[Anders Ourom]

Would it be feasible to work down from the base of the Split Pillar, perhaps with careful use of directionals? The bolts far to the right (south) might not be accessible, but much of the rest may be.

Also, I have a tub of "hole repair" stuff, if you need something to plug old holes and scars. I might even be persuaded to carry it up and help - somehow we should be able to get to the Pillar. I can put my walker in 4WD, maybe.

[pbeckham]

Re Cruel Shoes, just found out it's done by SAS contractors.

[fist crack]

Hey Perry,

sounds like CS has been taken care of...I could offer a snails pace A1 up the planet if you need it but you will have to lead borderline or philistine to get there.

KH

[Steve Townshend]

Hi Jer,
i don't have time to read through all the responses, so i don't know if these routes were already mentioned, but here's a few i've come across:

- Bravado (awesome route that gets very little traffic. All the bolts are sketch except 1 a the crux)
- Archives and Technical Ecstasy (side-by-side in the boulders). Both great but scary 20+ yr old bolts
- Savage Amusement beside Zombie Roof. The bolts are 20+ yrs old, but covered in glue so you can't tell what they are like under the glue? they aren't "nice".

i would retro bolt some of the above but i'm only in town for 1 week (and it's raining), and i just found out my drill is broken?! >:(

Cheer man
Steve
stevetownshend@hotmail.com

PS. did you do that route RP in Ontario? i just did it last week and wasn't sure if you did the FA or Sonnie did?

[Kasper]

Not sure if it's been mentioned already, but the fixed rope going up to the base of High Plains Drifter is just about worn through (sheath completely cut, a few strands of core holding it together). It should either be removed or replaced ASAP.
Imagining the fall if that rope were to blow gives me the shivers.
Kasper

[Lurch]

While grovelling up the pillar yesterday after work i noticed some loose rocks on the ledge right after the wide part.

I noticed them when trying to get into there (cause i almost grabbed one) and then on my way up I stepped on one accidentally and almost knocked it onto my belayer. I had to fumble it with my foot to keep it from coming out and eventually got it to sit there.

They are guidebook sized flakes, could fit in a bag nicely. We finished the pillar at like 10:45 and got out of there while we could still see so we didn't have time to do anything about it.. but someone is definetly gonna toss eventually and hopefully no one is underneath when it happens.

Lurch

[paulc]

Re: Brunser overhang

now has a two bolt anchor in decent rock. Needs a long anchor setup to extend over the lip for a TR.

Yay, the anchor gods are listening...

P

[SCaveman]

Hey Mank Patrol,

I was up on White Lightning today and the 2nd bolt after the overlap (10b pitch) is coming out of the rock. I beat it down with my biner but with a little tug it pulled out again about 1-2 cms. Not really confidence building.

Thanks.

SCaveman

[JSmith]

I just wanted to bump this thread.

The SAS has now completed 3 big phases of manky anchor/bolt replacement and guides are in the process of completing Phase 4.

Here's a non-exaustive list of completed projects just from Phase 3;

Pink Panther
Peaches and Cream
Genetically Superior
Digital Dexterity
Super Value
Geritol
House Music
And Metal For All
Big Daddy Overhang
100's new Permadraws at Check
Creepy Crawlers
Junkyard Patio
Olympic Bid
The Voodoo You Do
Rug Munchers
Ill Communication
Daily Planet
Fleeing Heifer
Bottom Feeder
Wayward Bovine
Neutered Bovine

Keep those reports coming either here or at squamishaccess.ca

Thanks.
J.

[JSmith]

Hi everyone.

SAS is gearing up for another phase of anchor replacement.

Does anybody have any more route suggestions with bad bolts/anchors that need some love?

[J Mace]

One bolt on the anchor on looney fringe.

Thanks

[NateDoggOG]

I posted it somewhere else late last summer, but the perma draws on Sanctuary at Rogues are in bad shape. Slings are faded and old, and at least one of the biners stuck open.
Second bolt on Jacobs Ladder next to Zombie Roof spins in the rock.
Anchor bolt ending the first proper pitch of Freeway was spinning in the rock still back in September.