Bolted start to Angel's Crack

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Simon
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Bolted start to Angel's Crack

Post by Simon » Sun Sep 09, 2007 4:12 pm

Does anyone know the grade on the (mostly) bolted slab pitch which provides a new start to Angel's Crest. It is between the original start and the tree start. Anyone know who put it up, and when?

Thanks,

-s-

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Post by EnigmaM » Sun Sep 09, 2007 10:31 pm

robin barley. 10a/b i think.

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Angel's crest - new pitch at bottom & option to tree cra

Post by natsdad » Wed Jun 23, 2010 1:51 pm

"It is between the original start and the tree start."

I just climbed Angel's Crest on June 19, 2010 and did not notice this alternate start. By "original" start, do you mean the vague corner with bushes and trees that you take to the ledge (exiting climber's right) to the tree (where the piton is)?

Where is this (new) slab pitch in relation to that corner? Does it end at the tree (piton)?

By the way, a great variation up high (just above the last acrophobe tower) needs more traffic: instead of fighting the tree to get on the 5.7 crack that leads to the whaleback, walk a very short distance to the right (10 or 15 meters max) and climb up the right facing corner. It starts off dirty, but gets really nice past 5 meters - great jamming and stemming lead through a bulging overhang and (almost) straight up to the belay (hanging cedar tree and piton) of the 5.10 "slot" pitch. Beautiful pitch (despite the start)! Give it a try (bring a wide variety of gear, emphasizing hand size and a few bigger pieces).

Anyone have any history on this pitch (I think it is mid 5.10)?

Thanks!

Dru
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Post by Dru » Wed Jun 23, 2010 4:52 pm

This crack pitch you mention is in the Squamish comprehensive guide and was done by McLane and Chris Murrell in 78 according to the guidebook.

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Re: Angel's crest - new pitch at bottom & option to tree

Post by harihari » Thu Jun 24, 2010 7:41 am

sounds cool. I am doing it Sat afternoon-- what pitch # is this variation on? And by "a few bigger pieces" do you mean a #4?

Also...anybody know what size gear that o/w variation to one of the 5.9 pitches takes?

natsdad wrote:"It is between the original start and the tree start."

I just climbed Angel's Crest on June 19, 2010 and did not notice this alternate start. By "original" start, do you mean the vague corner with bushes and trees that you take to the ledge (exiting climber's right) to the tree (where the piton is)?

Where is this (new) slab pitch in relation to that corner? Does it end at the tree (piton)?

By the way, a great variation up high (just above the last acrophobe tower) needs more traffic: instead of fighting the tree to get on the 5.7 crack that leads to the whaleback, walk a very short distance to the right (10 or 15 meters max) and climb up the right facing corner. It starts off dirty, but gets really nice past 5 meters - great jamming and stemming lead through a bulging overhang and (almost) straight up to the belay (hanging cedar tree and piton) of the 5.10 "slot" pitch. Beautiful pitch (despite the start)! Give it a try (bring a wide variety of gear, emphasizing hand size and a few bigger pieces).

Anyone have any history on this pitch (I think it is mid 5.10)?

Thanks!

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Post by hans » Thu Jun 24, 2010 8:51 am

The slab start has been there a while as far as I know. To find it go up the gully past the regular start heading towards the tree start. You should be able to see the first bolt at least. It's a long pitch to the base of the Angel crack, bolts and gear, watch for rope drag.

There is another variation to the whaleback pitch that is pretty good. Instead of climbing the tree to the wide crack, go LEFT to find a steep finger-thin hand crack. This joins in with the regular route about 15-20m up. I would guess it's 5.10-.

Also, there is a good variation to the final pitch (the chimney). From the belay ledge, where the two bolts are, go left past a short steep layback then to a steep left trending crack past a couple of pitons. I think it's 5.10+.

The offwidth is really wide - maybe a #6 camalot would fit? Hopefully someone else knows.

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Bolted start to Angel's Crack - and other variations

Post by natsdad » Thu Jun 24, 2010 9:27 am

Hi Dru, Harihari and Hans:

Thanks for the replies and info.

The hand crack I'm talking about is a variation of the 10th pitch (if you count all pitches, i.e. angel's crack = pitch 3) - but the easiest way to identify it is that it is on the sandy/gravelly ledge above ALL acrophobe towers and this is the ledge that has the evergreen tree which you would otherwise struggle with to get into the 5.7 crack which then puts you onto the whaleback. So you don't fight the tree, instead walk by it (away from the crest - towards high plains drifter), but just a short distance, to this right-facing corner system. As for pro: biggest piece we placed was a 3.5 (old) camalot. We also placed a # 3, two # 2, two # 1 camalots and some thinner gear near the start. Also there are a few stout trees on the route which I slung for pro. Enjoy - it is a great pitch...

Hans - I'll try the variations you mention (go left, instead of right at same spot).

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Post by J Mace » Thu Jun 24, 2010 12:29 pm

I am doing it Sat afternoon
When you make statements like that you upset the weather gods....now you need to sacrifice something to make it right

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Post by harihari » Thu Jun 24, 2010 1:04 pm

J Mace wrote:
I am doing it Sat afternoon
When you make statements like that you upset the weather gods....now you need to sacrifice something to make it right
Argh f**k you're right, Mace. I'll see if my girlfriend is willing to cut the beating heart out of one of her children.

Next time, I will say "and should the Gods permit, I will be thankful to climb it Saturday"

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Post by 5.4 Slayer » Thu Jun 24, 2010 3:01 pm

harihari wrote:
J Mace wrote:
I am doing it Sat afternoon
Argh f**k you're right, Mace. I'll see if my girlfriend is willing to cut the beating heart out of one of her children."
Oh Jebus, I was thinking a chicken might suffice.

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Post by J Mace » Thu Jun 24, 2010 3:36 pm

Next time, I will say "and should the Gods permit, I will be thankful to climb it Saturday"
The gods do take remorse as a start but I fear we may be too late, I think the punishment will be having to go climbing early to beat the rains.

Inshallah

GFS at 5pm Saturday


Image

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Post by Joolie » Thu Jun 24, 2010 8:31 pm

I've heard that #6 WC friend and a #3 big bro is what it takes. There is no anchor at the top either.

Phone if you want to borrow something.

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Post by Dru » Fri Jun 25, 2010 8:21 am

About 8 yrs ago I was doing that 5.10 crack on the 10th pitch variation with Don Serl and happened to look over to the side and saw a weasel eating a bird on a ledge out to the side.

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Angel's crest variations

Post by natsdad » Fri Jun 25, 2010 8:34 am

[quote]About 8 yrs ago I was doing that 5.10 crack on the 10th pitch variation with Don Serl and happened to look over to the side and saw a weasel eating a bird on a ledge out to the side.[/quote]

Cool. One of the things I like about AC is the alpine feel of the route. (Especially when you get on it early and it is not crowded :)

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