Validity
Validity
Let me preface this. I'm just asking.
Does someone, who has been climbing for a couple of years, have a legitimate beef about grades that are kinda off? For example, this person has climbed several 5.10ds in the 2 yrs they have been climbing. They get on a supposed 10d and they complain (not suggest) that the route is sandbagged. Now, does this person have a basis to complain because they are more intune to what a 10d ought to feel like as opposed to a person climbing 5.12s? Or due to lack of overall climbing exprience, they ought to just chalk this one to a lack technique or endurance or power.
Should I even throw in the reference to the grading they are used to in the gym?
Does someone, who has been climbing for a couple of years, have a legitimate beef about grades that are kinda off? For example, this person has climbed several 5.10ds in the 2 yrs they have been climbing. They get on a supposed 10d and they complain (not suggest) that the route is sandbagged. Now, does this person have a basis to complain because they are more intune to what a 10d ought to feel like as opposed to a person climbing 5.12s? Or due to lack of overall climbing exprience, they ought to just chalk this one to a lack technique or endurance or power.
Should I even throw in the reference to the grading they are used to in the gym?
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If your limit is 10d, it's easier to have fun and stay safe if the grading is realistic. Everyone should know that +/- a letter grade is fair game. However, it really sucks to be on an 11d that is sandbagged at a 10d grading.
My point is that grading only really matters relative to what your climbing limit is, so, YES, the opinion of those who climb at a particular (lower) level is relevant. Sandbagged routes lead to a greater risk of accident or injury to those whose limit is near the stated grade.
GA
My point is that grading only really matters relative to what your climbing limit is, so, YES, the opinion of those who climb at a particular (lower) level is relevant. Sandbagged routes lead to a greater risk of accident or injury to those whose limit is near the stated grade.
GA
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I personally like chasing the numbers but I'd prefer a route to be sandbagged rather than soft. I get very little satisfaction if I flash or onsite a route that should be very hard for me. Sport routes are almost always pretty damn safe so a sandbagged route shouldn't be much of an issue. I think a sandbagged trad route is a whole other ball game though and safety is a major concern.
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