Validity

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MCpl
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Validity

Post by MCpl » Tue Aug 09, 2005 12:04 pm

Let me preface this. I'm just asking.

Does someone, who has been climbing for a couple of years, have a legitimate beef about grades that are kinda off? For example, this person has climbed several 5.10ds in the 2 yrs they have been climbing. They get on a supposed 10d and they complain (not suggest) that the route is sandbagged. Now, does this person have a basis to complain because they are more intune to what a 10d ought to feel like as opposed to a person climbing 5.12s? Or due to lack of overall climbing exprience, they ought to just chalk this one to a lack technique or endurance or power.

Should I even throw in the reference to the grading they are used to in the gym?

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Pete L.
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Post by Pete L. » Tue Aug 09, 2005 3:27 pm

I feel 5.12c that people should 13a worry less about grades 12a and just 11c/d go out and 14b have fun.

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Post by mr_staggerlee » Tue Aug 09, 2005 5:45 pm

If your limit is 10d, it's easier to have fun and stay safe if the grading is realistic. Everyone should know that +/- a letter grade is fair game. However, it really sucks to be on an 11d that is sandbagged at a 10d grading.

My point is that grading only really matters relative to what your climbing limit is, so, YES, the opinion of those who climb at a particular (lower) level is relevant. Sandbagged routes lead to a greater risk of accident or injury to those whose limit is near the stated grade.

GA

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Post by MCpl » Tue Aug 09, 2005 9:40 pm

Good point Staggerlee..... but I said kinda off. We're talkin' a letter grade at most. Where maybe a lack of height or a little slab technique might align this person's opinion.

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Post by mr_staggerlee » Wed Aug 10, 2005 7:59 am

then that's just *^(*&^* whining and they should shut up, buy an xbox, put on their lululemon, sit on the couch, and pretend to climb.

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MCpl
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Post by MCpl » Wed Aug 10, 2005 8:28 am

That's the response I was lookin' for. heheh Awesome Staggerlee. I thought I was just being negative. Its just that I've been hearing a lot of less than positive talk about grades lately.

I don't know if people are having fun anymore.

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Post by GELATIN MAN » Wed Aug 10, 2005 9:05 am

:roll:

I'm in my forties & cannot be bothered by chasing number grades .
Depending on the climb i climb anywhere from 11- to 11+ .
All i can say is all climbs are different !
I have one simple formula .
That's Have Fun !
Isn't that the main reason we all climb ?
GELATIN MAN

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Post by Pete L. » Wed Aug 10, 2005 3:39 pm

Some people will b%$ch about grades regardless of what level they climb at, and let's be honest, we've all done it at some point in time.
The people that do it insesantly get pretty tiring though.

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Post by 5.4 Slayer » Wed Aug 10, 2005 4:10 pm

I personally like chasing the numbers but I'd prefer a route to be sandbagged rather than soft. I get very little satisfaction if I flash or onsite a route that should be very hard for me. Sport routes are almost always pretty damn safe so a sandbagged route shouldn't be much of an issue. I think a sandbagged trad route is a whole other ball game though and safety is a major concern.

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