Retro/Over bolting

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
Post Reply
User avatar
MCpl
Super Member
Super Member
Posts: 1279
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 9:31 am
Location: Lower Mainland

Retro/Over bolting

Post by MCpl » Mon Nov 08, 2004 10:53 am

What's the deal of adding more bolts while retro bolting established safe routes?

Isn't that taking away from the spirit of what the establisher wanted and maybe also removing the "adventure" of climbing??

This should be one for the "Ethics Police". I mean, "So what if someone has to take a 30ft whipper at the top of the Pet Wall."
Top
GELATIN MAN
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 35
Joined: Tue Jun 22, 2004 12:21 pm

Post by GELATIN MAN » Mon Nov 08, 2004 12:03 pm

:wink:

Sure beats payin for the same ride at the PNE .
GELATIN MAN
Top
t-bone
Full Member
Full Member
Posts: 112
Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2004 7:49 am

Post by t-bone » Wed Nov 17, 2004 10:07 pm

Why would you need to add more bolts on "Safe" routes?

Unless you have express written permission from the first ascentionist, NEVER add bolts to existing routes. Anchors are a little greater though....
Top
t-bone
Full Member
Full Member
Posts: 112
Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2004 7:49 am

Post by t-bone » Wed Nov 17, 2004 10:07 pm

t-bone wrote:Why would you need to add more bolts on "Safe" routes?

Unless you have express written permission from the first ascentionist, NEVER add bolts to existing routes. Anchors are a little greyer though....
Top
User avatar
MCpl
Super Member
Super Member
Posts: 1279
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 9:31 am
Location: Lower Mainland

Post by MCpl » Fri Nov 19, 2004 9:41 am

Must be an echo in here. :)
Top
User avatar
Pete L.
Posting Maniac
Posting Maniac
Posts: 781
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 7:59 am
Location: Langley

Post by Pete L. » Fri Nov 19, 2004 10:04 am

Must be an echo in hear.
Top
User avatar
Pete L.
Posting Maniac
Posting Maniac
Posts: 781
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 7:59 am
Location: Langley

Post by Pete L. » Fri Nov 19, 2004 10:04 am

Can anyone here that?
Top
User avatar
Pete L.
Posting Maniac
Posting Maniac
Posts: 781
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 7:59 am
Location: Langley

Post by Pete L. » Fri Nov 19, 2004 10:07 am

Seriously,
I see no reason to retro-bolt safe routes, unless it's to replace old or bad bolts.
In saying that, I was pretty happy to clip the newly added bolt on "Animal."
Top
User avatar
Pete L.
Posting Maniac
Posting Maniac
Posts: 781
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 7:59 am
Location: Langley

Post by Pete L. » Fri Nov 19, 2004 9:21 pm

Sorry, me again.
The question is would "Animal" have been more rewarding if the last bolt wasn't there?
Some of my most memorable routes have been the ones with big air potential. "Animal" is just another clip-up now.
I guess I could skip the last bolt but is it the same?
Imput anyone...

I'm bored and my wife has a headache.
Top
t-bone
Full Member
Full Member
Posts: 112
Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2004 7:49 am

Post by t-bone » Fri Nov 19, 2004 10:22 pm

I know let's re-bolt Merci Me! That route is too scary for me....MCPl, can you lead it for me?
Top
User avatar
MCpl
Super Member
Super Member
Posts: 1279
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 9:31 am
Location: Lower Mainland

Post by MCpl » Sat Nov 20, 2004 3:22 pm

How about Pleasent Pheasant? I'm pretty sure they added a bolt at the top.
Top
sled neck
Casual Observer
Casual Observer
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:19 pm
Location: Squamish

Post by sled neck » Sat Nov 20, 2004 6:35 pm

Pleasant Pheasant was originally put up on gear (try it!!) and had one bolt, it was later retro-bolted by the first ascensionists.
Top
Post Reply

Return to “Squamish Climbing Forum”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 36 guests