Grade correction

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Clive kessler
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Grade correction

Post by Clive kessler » Tue May 16, 2006 6:31 pm

I know that this topic might cause all sorts of controversy but here goes.

After a recent roadtrip I have come to believe that most of the grades on the new routes at Chek are soft. This also holds true if you compare these routes to long est. other routes in Squish.

Now I know the arguments that will come up:

Who cares about grades.

Chek climbing is different than Pet wall, Smith, etc.

blah, blah, blah.

I think those arguments are used by people that really do care about the grades and who's egos couldn't handle the lesser grade.

The reputation of the area is at stake... Almost without exception every route established within the last few years should be downgraded at least 1-2 letters grades.

I am the only one who feels this way?

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monkeyboy
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Post by monkeyboy » Tue May 16, 2006 7:04 pm

I completely disagree!
Eg. Creeping right should be 13a!

t-bone
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Post by t-bone » Tue May 16, 2006 7:53 pm

I think most people think the routes at Chek are pretty soft, usually by a letter grade

My downgraded routes would include:
Rug Munchers 11c
Got Pull 11c/d
Low Impact 10a
Skank 10d
Currently Coagulating 10d

I can't speak to the 12's....

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5.4 Slayer
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Post by 5.4 Slayer » Tue May 16, 2006 10:39 pm

Hmmm, my 2 cents; Compared to routes done elseware I'd say -

Rug Munchers kicks my a$%. For me it's at least 11d. I'm okay with 12a even
Got pull - 11d
The Reach Around - 12a
From Beneath You It Devours - 11d, possibly 12a (use the hand jam guys!)
Trunk Monkey - 12a
MEC - 11c
Incredible Journey - 12a
Co-Dependant Anonymous - 10c, maybe d
Face The Music - 11c or d

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Climbingjunky
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Post by Climbingjunky » Wed May 17, 2006 6:55 am

meingh wrote:I think I have to agree with T-Bone for the most part. Mike you will be happy to know I think Got Pull is soft. I am working on an update to the topo's which will be out soon.

Sorry for the delay with the updated topo but i do have a life and other commitments that help pay my mortgage. Don't get me wrong this site is a lot of fun to maintain I just wish you guys would click on the ads more often.

Gary
I think we should establish Mondays as ad clicking day! :D
Hey Gary, do you have an option for climbers to help out or donate to help fund your site? I'm sure people would like to contribute if they can.

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bike
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Post by bike » Wed May 17, 2006 7:24 am

All the routes that I put up I graded for what people told me. If the grades are soft. I say down grade away! What do I care what the grades are?

Gary, who are you trying to fool? You don't have a life other than this web site. Get thoughs topos done!! :lol:

Peter
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Post by Peter » Wed May 17, 2006 10:52 am

Who's grades do we use as gospel anyways: Gary's topo's? Squamish Select, word of mouth? What? That's the main issue. I know the select guide has some grades wrong and everyone has their own opinion. Take the newest Red Rocks guide, the grades in that thing are all over the place. They dropped all the grades at least a letter b/c they felt Red Rocks was getting a "soft" rep. So now some are completely sandbagged. I think if the grade is important to someone then they will know deep down if they really have "ticked" their next grade. JMO.

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MCpl
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Post by MCpl » Wed May 17, 2006 11:50 am

Firstly, its great that there hasn't been any heated arguments in this thread so far.

Secondly, when talking about the new routes at Chek, one has to remember that they are still relatively new. The currently offered grades were set through limited consensus in order to get the latest edition of the Squamish Select guidebook out.

Thirdly, there has been limited input from climbers as to the accuracy of these grades. Even with the ability to communicate with others on the internet (ie. this forum), it seems like people are hesitant to offer their opinion.

Lastly, we should also not overlook the possibility that these "other" climbing areas that we are comparing Squamish grading to may be sandbagged and Squamish might actually be on the money.

I have no problem down grading stuff.... I'll start.

Vultures Circling 5.12c

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Post by GELATIN MAN » Wed May 17, 2006 11:54 am

:roll:


Kudos to Gary .
I agree with his reasons of being subjective .
Im no professional climber in any means but grades will ALWAYS
be subjective .
plus or minus a letter grade ..so what !
If you like the route regardless of the grade climb it .
If you don't like it you don't get on a second time .
At the end of the day it's all about getting out & having fun .
GELATIN MAN

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Clive kessler
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Post by Clive kessler » Wed May 17, 2006 5:29 pm

Good points so far. Concensus is the key. What routes do people feel are out of line?

Peter
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Post by Peter » Wed May 17, 2006 5:47 pm

MCpl wrote: Vultures Circling 5.12c
Nice try Marty, I don't think so................

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