Approach: From the Gondola parking take the trail towards Shanon Falls and after a hundred plus meters jump the cedar fence on the left and head up the Evac trail. After a few minutes you pass an obvious cliff on the left, keep going on the evac trail and in a few more minutes you will see three trees within 10m of one another with pink flags (the middle one is skinny and has two pink flags on it). Leave the trail and find a small cairn (20m left of the evac trail) contour left for a couple more minutes passing more pink flags. The line starts in the obvious watercourse lookers right of the Gondola line.
P1. 5.8 25m Gear to #1 extra finger size 2 bolts. Follow a crack system with a slab (bolt) in the middle (good routefinding keeps the grade melow)
P2. 10c 15m 4 Bolts A campusy crux with glassy feet. Continue up to a belay. The direct crack is 11- and takes small wires and cams -a touch spicy!
Rope pull and step left
P3. 10c 20m 5 bolts and small gear to #2 (RP#4 or small nuts and black alien) Follow the groove passing roofs and move left to belay
P4. 10d 10m 1 bolt small or finger cams. Get into the short steep corner from the left and go up with difficulty to a big sloping ledge (access to Darkness at Noon and Smokeshow)
P5. 10b 20m Gear to #3 1 bolt. Climb straight up the corner and step right towards the bolt which protects a devious mantle, continue a couple more meters to the belay.
P6. 5.8 25m 5 bolts good climbing up the well featured slab above
From the big sloping ledge (the Sky Lounge) atop P4. There is another station out left belay here to do Darkness at Noon 11d (7 Bolts) and Smokeshow 11c Gear (extra fingers to #2) Both are worthy and they share the same anchor which is 15m below the last station of Under the Volcano. The other Routes at the Overlook just right are also quite good so enjoy!
Thanks to Jean Marc Savoie and Max Fisher for the help and Luke Neufeld for joining on the send
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