Partial opening of new North Apron route

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scrubber
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Partial opening of new North Apron route

Post by scrubber » Sun May 22, 2016 6:49 am

Over the last 8 months, many of you have seen the fixed blue static ropes running down to the left of Memorial Crack and Calculus Crack. This is an ongoing project that will be ready for next spring, due to time constraints, and volume of cleaning required. The climb was completed in its vegetated state in September of 2014, but had to wait a while for the level of commitment required to tackle cleaning it.

Ultimately the route will be nine pitches from 25 to 50 metres, and looks like it will weigh in around 5.8. It starts just left of Calculus Direct, crosses Start from Scratch at the first belay, then parallels Calculus Crack for its entire length in cracks and ramp systems just inside the South Gulley. It crosses the apron rap route at the bottom of the first short rap, and continues diagonally up and left , popping out of the gulley at the base of the groove below Memorial Ledge.

From this tree belay, the route is now open for two pitches to its top. It begins about 5m left of Karen's Math, and followes cracks for a 30m 5.7 and a 40m 5.8 pitch, joining Memorial crack for the final few metres before the belay on top. This can be linked into a memorable 70 m pitch with judicious use of slings to straighten out the rope line and avoid drag. Presently it is a straightforward gear belay mid way, but I haven't made a final decision about that. It will depend on how the character of the rest of the route develops.

At the top, you'll need to use the standard rap off to the right to decend to Broadway ledge if not continuing up the Chief.

Please give it a try, and let others know!

Kris

scrubber
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Re: Partial opening of new North Apron route

Post by scrubber » Sat Jul 16, 2016 7:23 am

Thanks to all who have given this route a go! The two open pitches are quickly losing their "grittiness". We met some folks up there a few days ago who had done it several times. They commented that it was a much more consistent climb than Karen's Math to Memorial Crack. Moderate climbing throughout without the trickier cruxes. Another local said its part of his solo circuit to link Calculus to the Butt Light version of the Buttress.

I'm really looking forward to opening the entire route to everyone next Spring.

K

relic
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Re: Partial opening of new North Apron route

Post by relic » Mon May 08, 2017 9:38 pm

Is this thing good to go yet? Looks like it is from the road... and from mags. Those clean streaks are pretty white and shiny.

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