Bolts Smashed - Tunnel Rock

[Dru@Work]

Just a heads up - a friend was climbing at the Smoke Bluffs over the weekend and said that hangers on several routes at the lower Tunnel Rock crag - the one downhill and right of the tunnel - had been pounded flat against the rock by repeated hammering and could not be clipped

[Dru@Work]

So I had a phone discussion about this info and was asked to post the following info here:

The crag was originally developed by Robin Barley, who placed all the bolts, and used chainlink and washer anchors on top.

The Smoke Bluffs climbing management committee (correct me if I got the name wrong) has a policy that all anchors used at the Bluffs should be UIAA-approved hardware. So they chopped the chainlink/washer top anchors and replaced them with UIAA-standard bolts and chains. Three years ago.

Apparently the bolt flattener is Robin who has the attitude that they are his route(s) to damage as he sees fit and no one else is allowed to alter them in any way, even to the extent of improving substandard hardware.

So there you have it. Sad real-world version of Internet flame war I guess.

[Jonny5]

I don't understand what substandard anchors add to a route. Maybe I am missing something here... Does he take them replace the anchors with more cheap less optimal hardware? Man isn't part of the point of opening routes in the bluffs to have others enjoy them!?! How does anchor hardware especially if it doesn't change anchor location change the routes difficulty or flavour whatsoever? On another not I have to say as someone who as climbed less than 3 years "GTFO of here with that 5.10a A0 B.S.!!

[geoffgeorges]

another source of info:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4795

I have not been there for 2 years, weird times, we will see how this evolves, or devolves.

[rolfr]

Drew are you sure it was Robin? First hand information? I climbed there at the end of May then had tea with Robin afterwards, he seemed quite pleased that someone actually climbed there and enjoyed the routes.

[J Mace]

I also climbed the routes with Robin in April and he was stoked, and then we crossed paths at the radio tower climbs, which blew his mind. Which by the way are awesome climbs, that is if someone hasnt vandalized them, I think he mentioned he was surprised to see the bench still there. Now if there was a thread to be moderated around here...

[BK]

I know for fact that Robin has started a local Hells Angels chapter and is currently terrorizing unsuspecting climbers in the smokebluffs with his gang of hooligans on bikes, wearing their trademark Joe Brown helmets. They shook me down for my lunch money and threatened my dog just yesterday. I reported it to Brian Moorhead but he just laughed at me. I think he's in on it.

[Don]

^^^!! Full belly laugh and coughed up my beer on that one !! Jeeez, hope it doesn't get moderated??!!


I was at Tunnel Rock yesterday and took a look.. All of the routes on the Vandalarium (including anchors) except one (??) have nice straight bolts protruding from the rock , but no hangers...

FYI

[Dru@Work]

Moorhead the Elder is the one who told me it was Robin. If it wasn't, take it up with him.

[hevyduty]

Hi folks just to let you know the Vanderlairium is good to go again ! I'm going to add another set of anchors to the lower wall as 4 routes share one anchor. I have two bent studs to remove on the lower wall and two new bolts to replace the chopped ones. The crag is a little green in places and needs a little love . The crag has some great routes, Mooronhead 5.9,Tetlys Tea Crack 5.9,The Least Conformity 5.7, and Viredessence 5.10d are the standout routes at the crag. One route is not recommended as it has no bolts,it needs two. Maybe someone out there who knows Robin well could have a word with him as I'm loathe to add bolts to someone else's routes enjoy the crag again Hevy