Dogzilla new route 5.11b 14 pitches near photophobia

[squamish climber]

Looks like another fine line.

Anybody climbed it?



Up to 5.11b and 14 pitches. A semi-continuous multi pitch circuit of up to 14 pitches. Can be climbed in whole or broken up into sections. FA’s Glenn Woloski with: Robin Barley, Paul Schotfeldt, Paul Street, Harry Young. 2013-2014. Gear: 60m rope OK. Single rack to #3.5 Camalot . Extendible slings.

Wires. Approach: Slhanay (Squaw) left as for Photophobia. Route starts on the obvious broad wall, kitty corner to Photophobia.

P1 11a( 5.10c with 1pa), 35 meters. Climb steep flakes to ripples thinning out to thin moves before a long crack system. 6 bolts
P2 5.9, 30 meters. Continue up crack to easy ground. 1 bolt.
P3 5.10d 30 meters. Move across ledge right. Climb blocks to a steep wall ,pass three bolts to a good crack. Continue up cracks and ledges to a belay atop a large block on your right. 4 bolts.
P4 5.10a, 25meters. Climb steep crack to belay at large ledge. (Bolted line at right not open yet.)
P5 5.10b, 30 meters. Crack and face leading to a steep wall and belay out left.
P6 5.11a, 30meters. Steep face and cracks. 3 bolts. (Rappel here if not completing route.)
P7 5.5, 40 meters. Climb block then traverse ledge left passing one bolt, climb an easy ramp ,up face at a station, passing two bolts . Continue on easy ground to a very exposed rappel . Make two 30m rappels traverse left 20 meters to the base of P8-P11 at the large leaning flake. Mixture of bolts and sparse natural protection for P8 thru P11, light rack to #2 camalot.
P8 5.11a, 35 meters. Sustained thin face climbing on mostly good holds.
P9 5.10c, 30 meters. Delicate traverse left to mantles on good holds. Thin face climbing to more featured rock.
P10 5.11b, 35 meters. Climb the steep ramp until possible to make thin moves to gain a small seam, Use broken flakes to progress upwards to more thin holds. Finally a series of horizontal features to a belay.
P11 5.10 b, 40meters. Gain the ramp above passing a rappel station, some awkward moves to the final arête.
Make 6 to 7 rapples to the base of the wall. Walk back right 25meters to start of the final two pitches (Dog eat dog) at a arching crack OR scramble of to the right along a small ledge following fixed rope until you reach the top of P4.(NOTE: It is possible to walk off from this high point , via the ridge heading south to Squaw descent trail.)
P12 5.10d, 30 meters. Climb the steep arch through a roof. Substained face climbing to a station. 4 bolts.
P13 5.10 c, 35 meters. More face climbing past flakes and out right over into a corner and steep crack. Hand traverse with increasing difficulty right, past a final bolt. 4 bolts.

Down climb the easy ramp of P7 past a bolt to gain a ledge above the rap station at top of P6 for the first of seven rappels to ground zero.

[greenerj]

I climbed this route on saturday with Glen, climbing the entire circuit of 13 pitches. I found the climbing to be surprisingly really good. The lower half of the route was varied with cracks and balancy face climbing.
The dog wall pitches where on amazing jumbo crystals with sustained face climbing. The Dog eat dog pitches had steep crack sections with an airy finger traverse to finish the day off. This route would dry really fast. Nice work Glen! I now look at the scrub lines with a new perspective..

[Glenn Woloski]

Updated Route Description sept 2014
Dogzilla
A semi-continuous multi pitch circuit . Can be climbed in whole or broken up into sections .
Omitting pitches 8 thru 11 gives 9 pitches of excellent 5.10 climbing.

9 pitches up to 5.10d: Pug wall, Dog's Breakfast,(2 Raps),Dog Eat Dog.
or
14 pitches Up to 5.11b: Pug Wall, Dog's Breakfast,(2Raps),Dogzilla,(6Raps), Dog Eat Dog.

FA’s Glenn Woloski with: Robin Barley, Paul Schotfeldt, Paul Street, Harry Young. 2013-2014.FCA Glenn Woloski,Jason Green Sept.2014 Gear: 60m rope OK. Single rack to #3.5 Camalot . Extendible slings. Approach: Slhanay (Squaw) left as for Photophobia. Route starts on the obvious broad wall, kitty corner to Photophobia.

PUG Wall
P1 11a( 5.10c with 1pa), 35 meters. Climb steep flakes to ripples diminishing to thin moves before a long crack system. 6 bolts
P2 5.9, 30 meters. Continue up crack to easy ground. 1 bolt.

DOG'S BREAKFAST
P3 5.10d 30 meters. Move across ledge right. Climb blocks to a steep wall ,pass three bolts to a good crack. Continue up cracks and ledges passing another bolt on it’s right, climb to a belay atop a large block on your right. 4 bolts. Beautiful climbing.
P4 5.10a, 25meters. Climb steep crack to belay at large ledge. 5.10 d Alternate: Excellent face to crack line out right of station. 5 bolts.
P5 5.10b, 30 meters. Crack and face leading to a steep wall and roof, hidden belay out left.
P6 5.10d, 30 meters. Steep face and cracks. 3 bolts. Wild. (Rappel here if not completing route.)
P7 5.5, 40 meters. Climb block then traverse ledge left passing one bolt, climb an easy ramp ,up face at a station, passing two bolts . Continue on easy ground to a very exposed rappel .
Make two 30m rappels traverse left 20 meters to the base of P8-P11 at the large leaning flake .

DOGZILLA
Mixture of bolts and sparse natural protection for P8 thru P11, light rack to #2 camalot.
P8 5.11a, 35 meters. Sustained, and incredible thin face climbing on mostly good holds.
P9 5.10c, 30 meters. Delicate traverse left to mantles on good holds. Thin face climbing to more featured rock.
P10 5.11b, 35 meters. Climb the steep ramp until possible to make thin moves to gain a small seam, Use broken flakes to progress upwards to more thin holds. Finally a series of horizontal features to a belay.
P11 5.10 b, 40meters. Gain the ramp above passing a rappel station, some awkward moves to the final arête. 9 bolts
Make 6 to 7 rappels to the base of the wall. Walk back right 25meters to start of the final two pitches (Dog eat dog) at a arching crack OR scramble of to the right along a small ledge following fixed rope until you reach the top of P4.(NOTE: It is possible to walk off from this high point , via the ridge heading south to Squaw descent trail.)

DOG EAT DOG
P12 5.10d, 30 meters. Climb the steep arch through a roof. Sustained face climbing to a station. 4 bolts.
P13 5.10 c, 35 meters. More face climbing past flakes and out right over into a corner and steep crack. Hand traverse with increasing difficulty right , past a final bolt. 7 bolts.

Descent:
Downclimb the easy ramp of P7 past a bolt to gain a ledge above the rap station at top of P6 for the first of seven rappels to ground zero OR rappel from top of P7 and scramble over to top of P4