Sky Pilot - Ascent time from Gondola and Conditions

Climbing above and beyond the Chief and Squamish Crags. Check here for trip reports and new routes in the Sea to Sky backcountry
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rockdawg
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Sky Pilot - Ascent time from Gondola and Conditions

Post by rockdawg » Sun Jul 27, 2014 8:49 pm

I am planning to climb Sky Pilot this week. The Matt Gunn scrambling guide suggests 6.5 to 8 hours for a "Fit, focused party" via Shannon Creek FSR. How much time does the gondola approach actually take off?

The gondola operator gives the Sky Pilot Valley Trail 2-3 hour return. Gunn gives 2 hours from top of old logging road to the pink slab, then 2 hours to the summit. Thats 6 hours. Doesn't seem like much time saving. Am I missing something here?

Also, does anyone know the latest conditions? Does the route still have steep snow? Wondering if I can leave my ice ax at home.

A-Rat
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Re: Sky Pilot - Ascent time from Gondola and Conditions

Post by A-Rat » Sun Jul 27, 2014 10:38 pm

I did it last week. Conditions were stelar. Snow is not run out but it is a long slop so having an axe to self arrest and save a long hike back up isn't a bad idea.
Time wise I did 4 hours up with some nice breaks in the col and on the summit then 2.5 hours down.

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Re: Sky Pilot - Ascent time from Gondola and Conditions

Post by tobyfk » Sat Aug 02, 2014 3:33 pm

Worth noting that there are now rap anchors above the pink slab and also above one section near the summit. Placed by SAR?

Brendan
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Re: Sky Pilot - Ascent time from Gondola and Conditions

Post by Brendan » Sat Aug 16, 2014 8:41 pm

I hiked up on Aug 6 by myself and it took me exactly 3.5 hours from the top of gondola to the summit, and 2:35 down. On the way up I kept a solid pace, but not toooo fast, and stopped for a sandwich at the end of the road/boulderfield, and also chatted with some people there for a while. I also stopped and checked many things out along the way and took lots of pics and texted people and sh*t like that.
Coming down I took my time and stopped a bunch to take rocks out of my shoes (15x at least) and took my socks off to dry my feet etc. 2 hrs down is not unrealistic!?

So you can probably do 3 hours up from top of gondola if you’re in half decent shape :)

I didn’t notice any rap anchors on the Pink Slab, but noticed the ones above the next crux further up (pic below). The pic of the Pink Slab makes it look steeper than it is. In reality it’s like the steeper part of the Apron maybe, however a fall would be catastrophic from where I took the pic. I can’t see using these rap anchors unless it’s wet or icy :D

Image
Image

Brendan
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Re: Sky Pilot - Ascent time from Gondola and Conditions

Post by Brendan » Sat Aug 16, 2014 8:44 pm

But more importantly is this…

Image

tradwright
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Re: Sky Pilot - Ascent time from Gondola and Conditions

Post by tradwright » Mon Aug 18, 2014 4:14 pm

Does anyone know if a 30 meter rope would be sufficient to rappel the upper crux?

Brendan
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Re: Sky Pilot - Ascent time from Gondola and Conditions

Post by Brendan » Mon Aug 25, 2014 6:25 pm

It should be fine, however it probably won’t be needed now while it’s dry ;)

islander
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Re: Sky Pilot - Ascent time from Gondola and Conditions

Post by islander » Fri Jun 03, 2016 6:26 am

Does anyone have any pictures of the crux slabs, and where the rappel stations are?

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Re: Sky Pilot - Ascent time from Gondola and Conditions

Post by Brendan » Fri Jun 03, 2016 7:25 pm


islander
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Re: Sky Pilot - Ascent time from Gondola and Conditions

Post by islander » Fri Jun 03, 2016 7:51 pm

I like you :D

What about the stations

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Re: Sky Pilot - Ascent time from Gondola and Conditions

Post by Brendan » Sat Jun 04, 2016 4:18 pm

There is an anchor at the top of the Pink Slab (on the left side if you’re looking down), and one further up the trail at the top of the section that leads to the gendarme (on the right side as you’re looking down). Here’s a pic of the second anchor. Unfortunately no pics of the Pink Slab anchor.

Image

islander
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Re: Sky Pilot - Ascent time from Gondola and Conditions

Post by islander » Sun Jun 05, 2016 4:57 pm

Seems to be mixed comments whether bringing a rope for the rappel is necessary
Last time I went it was blue bird skies and then the clouds came in and it poured rain :shock:

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Re: Sky Pilot - Ascent time from Gondola and Conditions

Post by SGB » Fri Aug 31, 2018 9:20 pm

Doubt anyone really reads this forum anymore, but just in case...

Did this route recently starting from base of the gondola (not taking the lift up). We took 2.5 litres water each, low rise hiking shoes, spikes, axe, and decided to take our harness and a 30 m rope to check out these rap stations at the pink slab and near the summit. Took us 8h total, in good time to enjoy a skypilot beer at the lodge. Not bad for a couple of 50 year olds!

Rap stations easy to find, useful although not necessary if you climb technical rock

Well marked with cairns and flagging tape the whole way.

Get on this hike for sure. Showtime and the Colonel strongly recommend. A great day trip!!

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