New route at Crag X

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scrubber
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New route at Crag X

Post by scrubber » Thu Jun 26, 2014 5:27 am

Although many of you have likely seen my ratty Rope hanging from the top of Crag X for the last year, the route has finally been finished. Left of triage arête, this long corner leads to a fixed rap station from the large fir tree at the top. The route is 40m long, so be prepared to belay from the top. Decend via two raps. First one to the station on top of triage arête. We climbed the route more than a year ago, but life has gotten in the way of me finishing off the excavation until last week. The name is a reference to the growth that was peeled out of this great low-angled corner to make it climbable.

The corner to the right is a project for this coming winter.

Hot Wax 5.7, 40m
FA Kris Wild, Jen Reilly, May 2013

DirtBagClimber
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Re: New route at Crag X

Post by DirtBagClimber » Thu Jun 26, 2014 5:30 pm

Sweet that corner looks fun I was wondering who cleaned it. Thanks Kris

Technically this is Oliver !

scrubber
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Re: New route at Crag X

Post by scrubber » Sun Aug 24, 2014 8:58 am

The route now has its own bolted rap stations at the top, and half way down. This way you're not held captive if there's a party on triage arête. Belaying from above will be more comfortable from the large fir tree, however the new park policy prohibits fixed anchors from trees. Therefore I removed the loop of chain from it, and put in a rap station just below.

The low angled nature of the corner means that it catches quite a bit of the leaves and needles that trickle down the wall. Don't be discouraged however! A quick picking with your nut tool will reveal more protection placements than you could ever use. I'll be giving it a seasonal brushing too.

K

hevyduty
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Re: New route at Crag X

Post by hevyduty » Sun Aug 24, 2014 4:04 pm

thanks a million Chris the routes been getting loads of action !! cheers hevy.

hevyduty
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Re: New route at Crag X

Post by hevyduty » Sun Sep 14, 2014 9:37 am

Hi Kris I've droped off 2 sets of rap rings at Climb on for u courtesy of the SBP cheers Hevy

natsdad
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Re: New route at Crag X

Post by natsdad » Thu Sep 15, 2016 9:01 am

Hey Kris & climbers:

Thanks very much for unearthing and equipping Hot Wax. We climbed this yesterday and enjoyed it greatly. It is a very nice, sustained for the grade of 5.7, well protected and L O N G route. The mid way rappel anchor makes it very easy to descend quickly and safely.

Note to others: this is a great moderate crack climb. Although it collects fir needles easily - because of its' position and having trees above - these are *easily* brushed aside to reveal lots of great holds and protection placements. Give this a line a try!

cheers,
Steve

natsdad
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Re: New route at Crag X

Post by natsdad » Thu Jul 05, 2018 2:40 pm

Hey Tradsters:

Re-posting this post, as I climbed Hot Wax again yesterday and while it is still fun...it needs more traffic to rid it of fir needles, etc. Please hop on it!

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hey Kris & climbers:

Thanks very much for unearthing and equipping Hot Wax. We climbed this yesterday and enjoyed it greatly. It is a very nice, sustained for the grade of 5.7, well protected and L O N G route. The mid way rappel anchor makes it very easy to descend quickly and safely.

Note to others: this is a great moderate crack climb. Although it collects fir needles easily - because of its' position and having trees above - these are *easily* brushed aside to reveal lots of great holds and protection placements. Give this a line a try!

cheers,
Steve

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