Jingus the Cat - Crux Hold Missing

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TravisMcC
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Jingus the Cat - Crux Hold Missing

Post by TravisMcC » Fri Oct 12, 2012 11:31 am

Got on this climb yesterday evening and the crux hold broke off as I put all my weight on it.

I was seconding and my (much lighter) partner lead through it with no problem. She belayed from above, oddly... but turned out to be a good choice since the (15 pound?) rock would have landed right on her.

I don't think the climb is that much harder now... maybe a 10c if anything? But I have lengthy arms and reaching the next hold didn't pose me too much trouble. However, clipping the final bolt before the belay will be much trickier now.

Anyways... just a heads up!

smallman
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Re: Jingus the Cat - Crux Hold Missing

Post by smallman » Fri Oct 12, 2012 8:43 pm

The subject title of this thread projects the image of someone stealing the crux hold. Quite funny actually.

rockandsnowjunkie
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Re: Jingus the Cat - Crux Hold Missing

Post by rockandsnowjunkie » Sun Oct 14, 2012 9:11 pm

Having climbed this a few times I don't remember there being a distinct 'crux' hold, especially one setting up for the clip, which to me never felt like the crux anyhow. Perhaps another go next season to check it out.

MarkR
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Re: Jingus the Cat - Crux Hold Missing

Post by MarkR » Sun Oct 14, 2012 9:23 pm

I was wondering about this too. I thought the crux was the thin bit a few meters below the bolt. Did part of the rock at the crack come off?

TravisMcC
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Re: Jingus the Cat - Crux Hold Missing

Post by TravisMcC » Mon Oct 15, 2012 3:25 am

It's the hold you would use to clip the bolt.

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