New Route, Prow Wall
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evenstevens
- Casual Observer
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Sun Jul 04, 2010 4:56 pm
New Route, Prow Wall
Not my route, but lots of friends chipped in on this one and seeing as none of them are writing it up and the best fall of climbing weather in Squamish ever is holding strong you all need to get out and tackle this one!
It is more a combination of new pitches and old. I don't have a topo, but ones from near by routes will suffice.
Approach as for Gravity Bong. Do the first 2 pitches of that route (10+, 11+).
p3.Off the belay at the guillotine go up one move or so, then traverse right on bolts. This have been freed by Sonnie T, its his pitch, he said 12+, I couldn't even touch it! 2 bolts and a slung stump bring you to the hanging corner, then pull up and step right to a think crack near an arete, 11-, 2 bolt anchor.
p4.The Masher, aka the FuckOffWidth. This was cleaned and envisioned by T-Tony Touch Richardson who wanted it to go on gear, but then he gave it away to Sonnie T who through in a few bolts. 12-, wild. 40m, steep hands in a double overhanging corner lead to the wideness, clip bolts to the roof and pull over. 5 more meters brings you to the anchor.
p.5 a pitch from Sonnie's route the power of yesterday, 11+, 2 bolts, some thin gear, 15m long to nice ledge and 2 bolt anchor. Really good.
p.6 'Gold Rush' 11d, Sonnie and Colin Morehead I believe put this pitch up. Wild is an understatement, super unique pitch for Squamish. 7 bolts 15m long. Undercling, knee bar, layback up the right line of bolts in the broken arch like feature. 2 bolt anchor and then a 35 meter rap down and right to an anchor on the edge of the gully between the 1st and second summit. You need a rope longer than 60m to make it there, but only just.
Enjoy, I dont know what the whole route will be called, or if it will get a proper right up , but man it has some brilliant climbing. Myself, Jesse Huey, Ian Welstead and Tony Richardson did the first known ground up continuous ascent on this one but we didn't free the traverse.
Rack is standard squamish rack with maybe 1 #4 camalot.
Evan
It is more a combination of new pitches and old. I don't have a topo, but ones from near by routes will suffice.
Approach as for Gravity Bong. Do the first 2 pitches of that route (10+, 11+).
p3.Off the belay at the guillotine go up one move or so, then traverse right on bolts. This have been freed by Sonnie T, its his pitch, he said 12+, I couldn't even touch it! 2 bolts and a slung stump bring you to the hanging corner, then pull up and step right to a think crack near an arete, 11-, 2 bolt anchor.
p4.The Masher, aka the FuckOffWidth. This was cleaned and envisioned by T-Tony Touch Richardson who wanted it to go on gear, but then he gave it away to Sonnie T who through in a few bolts. 12-, wild. 40m, steep hands in a double overhanging corner lead to the wideness, clip bolts to the roof and pull over. 5 more meters brings you to the anchor.
p.5 a pitch from Sonnie's route the power of yesterday, 11+, 2 bolts, some thin gear, 15m long to nice ledge and 2 bolt anchor. Really good.
p.6 'Gold Rush' 11d, Sonnie and Colin Morehead I believe put this pitch up. Wild is an understatement, super unique pitch for Squamish. 7 bolts 15m long. Undercling, knee bar, layback up the right line of bolts in the broken arch like feature. 2 bolt anchor and then a 35 meter rap down and right to an anchor on the edge of the gully between the 1st and second summit. You need a rope longer than 60m to make it there, but only just.
Enjoy, I dont know what the whole route will be called, or if it will get a proper right up , but man it has some brilliant climbing. Myself, Jesse Huey, Ian Welstead and Tony Richardson did the first known ground up continuous ascent on this one but we didn't free the traverse.
Rack is standard squamish rack with maybe 1 #4 camalot.
Evan
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