Favourite pitch in Squamish - any grade - any style

[jonny2vests]

I'll start the ball rolling

Trad; Even Steven or maybe Werewolves in London, or maybe the last 10a pitch of Angel's Crest.
Sport: Jeff and the Giant Reach.

Recommend me your favorites.

[NateDoggOG]

I honestly think that the Sword is my favorite trad pitch so far. Can't get over the amount of exposure up there!
On the other hand, High Mountain Woody, when I climbed it last year, was the first .9 I'd been on in a while and was like, this is AMAZING!
As far as sport goes, I haven't really climbed enough to have an opinion on it, but the second pitch of Dancing in the Light had some really cool features, and it ain't trad.

[jonny2vests]

Is Dancing in the Light as terrifying as it looks in that photo recently posted?
Yeah, the Sword is hard to beat for position, great climbing but not super varied...

[browniephoto]

technically dancing in the light is trad since it was bolted on lead...

and i'd have to say that i agree with nate on that pitch, quite excellent!

edit:

but, the 2nd pitch of teetering and the 4th are quite the ride..

[gnarnaphobe]

As far as pure cracks goes I think my fav so far has to be clean crack.

[jonny2vests]

technically dancing in the light is trad since it was bolted on lead...

That a new one.

[scrubber]

Crack: Left Side of the Split pillar
Face: Java Jive (too runout to be considered sport)
Sport: Permanent Waves (up to the second last bolt, before crux move and the chipped hold)

[MarkR]

Crack: Exasperator

Sport: No Name Road

[natsdad]

Crescent Crack (w/honourable mentions to Exasperator in 1 pitch, pitch 2 of Sunblessed and Super Value, oh, and pitch 2 of Centrefold for variety).

I don't climb enough sport to have an opinion...

Steve

[NateDoggOG]

Is Dancing in the Light as terrifying as it looks in that photo recently posted

It definitely has it's moments..... The guidebook says that the bolts get closer together as it gets steeper, which they do compared to the lower pitches, but they still aren't close by any means.

Perhaps my slab headspace has just gotten better since the start of the year, but I found myself getting way more of a rush on White Lightning - speaking of which, the second proper pitch of that is also really cool as far as slab goes.

[relic]

Sport: Permanent Waves (up to the second last bolt, before crux move and the chipped hold)

So how hard is it Kris if you only do the tree climb to here? I didn't know it was chipped.

[johnL]

Second pitch of sunblessed. (BTW, least favorite pitch is the last pitch of that climb)

[natsdad]

Hi johnL:

I used to feel the same way as you about last pitch of Sunblessed...until I tried stemming the first section, instead of jamming/groveling the wide crack. Give that a try next time. (It might not make it a favorite, but it might move up slightly in your rankings.)

Steve

[hans]

Ok, I can't pick just one.

P2 of Everything Under the Sun
Wonderland
Crescent Crack
P2 of Grub St Complex
P2 of Blazing Saddles
P3 of Borderline
P4 of Liquid Gold
Garield
Slap and Tickle
Split Beaver
P1 of Great Game

[scrubber]

So how hard is it Kris if you only do the tree climb to here? I didn't know it was chipped.

My recollection is about 12a or b. It's been a few years since I've been on it.