Bolted Dyke/Slab right of Skywalker?

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NateDoggOG
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Bolted Dyke/Slab right of Skywalker?

Post by NateDoggOG » Mon Jun 25, 2012 5:21 am

Looks ridiculous! Does anyone have any info on it? What it goes at? Has it been redpointed yet? It looks like a much steeper version of the crux pitch of White Lighting.

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Optimally-Primed
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Re: Bolted Dyke/Slab right of Skywalker?

Post by Optimally-Primed » Mon Jun 25, 2012 4:41 pm

Keith Wright wrote me about this pitch:
The first route was the sport route up the right leaning dyke. It looked really inviting from the ground with the upper section of curved, (either glacial polished, or water polished) "dishes". I rap bolted it by hand over the summer, 2003. I worked the route after it was bolted with Ingrid Schechter.Took allot of falls on that summer. I named the route "Aladdin's Lamp". I was only able to climb it on lead with 1 point of aid, pulling on one of the bolts. I give it 11c 1pa at that point. I think it could be linked at 12-. I gave George at Climb-On, the beta and he worked it one summer and was able to climb right at the crux with really long reaches. No red point though, as the next bolt would be out of reach and he was off route for the remaining balancy moves. The last section at the top is a runnout 10a. No harder than the 3rd pitch of Local Boys. Still exciting since you are above a little rise.
Go get some, Nate!

NateDoggOG
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Re: Bolted Dyke/Slab right of Skywalker?

Post by NateDoggOG » Mon Jun 25, 2012 6:35 pm

So he's saying that it still has to see a full ground up ascent? Challenge accepted - once I am a little bit more honed on slab. Thanks Jeremy!

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