New 5.9 Variation on Squamish Buttress

[relic]

Walk up the forest trail that leads to the original 5.9 face climbing pitch. Instead of waiting in line there, you may now climb a new 5.9 variation that starts up a triple tiered arete 20m to the left.

Climb up, and balance onto a bolt protected ledge that leads to an arete. Fun climbing up the arete past more bolts leads to a finger sized flake crack and a bolted anchor. 5.9, 35 metres, 6 bolts + gear up to 1". Rejoin the Buttress by climbing easily up to a tree belay and the next walking section of the Buttress.
FA by Aaron Black, Curtis Suave, Derek Woolgar. Sept. 1, 2011

[NateDoggOG]

Second ascent, Nathan (Nate Dogg OG) Roberts

Good climb, lots of fun, reasonably bolted, still needs a good solid rain to wash away the sand, but what new climb doesn't?
Bolted section felt stiff for a .9 (took a tumble when my foot popped due to sand) but that might change as it gets cleaner and sees some traffic.
Fingers section up higher is tons of fun, wish that part was longer.....
All in all, good climb, pretty sustained right through, bolted belay is at a ledge which is nice, and can be linked into the original line of the Buttress if so desired.
Thanks for the climb

[relic]

It is way more fun and definitely more sustained than the one move 5.9 face climbing pitch it avoids. Thanks Nathan, I'm glad you enjoyed it.

[relic]

Thanks for posting our topo Dave. If you want to download the topo http://www.quickdrawpublications.com/Fr ... 20Topo.jpg

EDIT: Just a heads up...We are gonna clean it up Tuesday Sept 6th around 7pm, when there should not be anyone up there. There should not be very much rock coming down at the base of it, mostly just dirt. But if you happen to be doing a late Buttress run, look up and stay clear of the two guys hanging from ropes with headlamps when approaching the rock from the trail.

[relic]

Nighttime cleaning session was a success. It is good to go, nice and clean.

[relic]

Does anyone have the time to add a bolt to this pitch? People have told me it feels poorly protected after the 2nd bolt, once you step around the arete. You need to do a couple of full on arete moves with poor protection at this point, then you gain some easier terrain. I'm not sure why we did not put a bolt in here. The man with the drill is away for a while and won't be around to do this.

It is also pretty much a sandbag at 5.9 and it should be upgraded to 10a at least. Please chime in if you agree or think otherwise.

[NateDoggOG]

I don't have the means to add a bolt, otherwise I would for ya. I also don't think that it is full on .10a, but it is definitely sustained at 5.9.

[relic]

Ya, I hear ya Nathan. But a lot of people think it's not 5.9, we were really on the fence about the grade but 10a sounds reasonable.

[NateDoggOG]

Fair nuff. I haven't been on it yet since that first time so I wouldn't mind going up and doing it again, especially now that it has had a full winters worth of rain to get the dust out.

[gnarnaphobe]

I'd have to agree it feels stout for 5.9 and that .10a seems more reasonable.


It seems a bit of the spicy side pulling those arete move(although I have only seconded it) but it would be a clean fall if you biffed it. That said, if you were to biff it on the hard moves with a bolt there the rope would run over the sharp arete... possibly twice.

IMO if a bolt was to be added the nicest spot for a bolt would be at the end of the bouldery arete moves.

P.S. Thanks for Ropegunnin' me up there Relic

[Fish Boy]

Sweet route, totally don't bother with the old way.

I suggest removing one of those many bolts later on, and putting it on that runout bit...or not....

[natsdad]

Hi Relic and others:

Has an additional bolt been added around the arete (as suggested above)? I'm thinking of trying this variation soon - weather permitting - en route to the "Butt Face" variation.

Thank you for putting in this new start.

Thanks,
Steve

[Lurch]

Steve hit it anyways.. It's easy!

[relic]

I'm sorry but no we have not. I don't have a drill or I would for sure. Hopefully I can borrow one soon.

Like Lurch said, you should be fine. It's not that bad at the start of the arete. It just would be more comforting being able to clip from the stance before you have to do one or two moves to the next bolt.

And we've decided that it's a 10a just so you know. It's updated in the online Squamish Select updates.

I hope you have lots of fun on the Buttress Steve!

[relic]

one or two moves to the next bolt.

Oops, that is a lie, there is no bolt two moves up. Bad memory here... Reading back to my earlier post, you do one or two arete moves to get to easier but run out terrain.