Climbing Stairway to Heaven

[quantum7]

Climbing this tomorrow and wondering if anyone has any helpful beta not included in the guide.Not sure what to do at the Milllenium Falcon section (do one or three pitches). Also wondering the status of the project pitches. Thanks for any tips.

[mcfly]

With a 60m rope and some extra draws you can link pitches 2 & 3 of Women in Comfortable Shoes / both pitches of Xenolith Dance / the 2 pitches of Millenium Falcon immediately above Bellygood Ledge / both pitches of Ladies First.
Don't know the status of the project pitches.

[J Mace]

How dry are things looking up there?

Quantum, post up when you return and let us know how dry the rock is

you can always suss out upper black dyke as well

[psi4ce]

As far as I know the project pitches were never finished.

What we did a few years ago was get to Belyygood as described in the guidebook. Climb a couple pitches of Millennium off Bellygood. Climb a couple link pitches to the Traverse of the Gods. Climb the traverse to Upper Black Dyke, and finish up the final Dyke pitch.

You should read:

http://www.squamishclimbing.com/squamis ... way+heaven

[tendollarpants]

I climbed it in August - and all the beta above is good from what I remember (although we didn't run many pitches together, so I can't speak to that).

I managed to loop the rope under/over/under some of the flakes on the 2nd pitch above bellygood - so if you could watch for that it might avoid the rope drag that I was suffering.

If you go all the way to the top (1st summit), the descriptions & bolt locations at raven's castle are a bit confusing. I have seen 3 guide books with different info. It's all fun up there though...

ken

[quantum7]

it was wet. made it as far as bellygood but millenium was a bit of a waterfall.