La Gota Fria, 5.11b (A0), 18 pitches

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harihari
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La Gota Fria, 5.11b (A0), 18 pitches

Post by harihari » Mon Jul 12, 2010 11:58 am

for your consideration. First ascent Sunday July 11, 2010 by Dylan Conelly and Chris Stolz :D

details and description: http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com/2010 ... -512d.html

photo-topo: http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com/2010 ... cture.html

Brendan
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Post by Brendan » Mon Jul 12, 2010 8:06 pm

Awesome.
Any pics of the actual climbing?

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Post by harihari » Tue Jul 13, 2010 9:05 am

Brendan wrote:Awesome.
Any pics of the actual climbing?
there are a few on the blog from older entries. I have some frokm the send day and I will post them in an hour or so. If you climb it, I would love any feedback-- more/less bolts, move belays, grades, etc.

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Post by harihari » Tue Jul 13, 2010 10:30 am

Here is a one-page printable topo, thanks to Jeremy Frimer.

http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com/2010 ... mbing.html

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Post by Mik » Tue Jul 13, 2010 4:35 pm

FA: Chris, Dylan and Mike Blicker

FCA on july 11, 2010 11b/c AO variation by Dylan and Chris.

FCFA awaits and the 2 pitches in debate are closed to the community with the exception of the individuals who have been emailed or contacted by us until further notice. thanks.

Mike

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Post by harihari » Tue Jul 13, 2010 5:47 pm

MikeBlicker wrote:FA: Chris, Dylan and Mike Blicker

FCA on july 11, 2010 11b/c AO variation by Dylan and Chris.

FCFA awaits and the 2 pitches in debate are closed to the community with the exception of the individuals who have been emailed or contacted by us until further notice. thanks.

Mike
Slight correction: FCA by Chris and Dylan, FA (certain pitches) Mike. Yea folks, Mike is going for the FCFA which means freeing the two 12+ pitches, so if you are up there, those two should remain his. Stay tuned and we'll let you know when the whole thing is free.

In the meantime, feel free to climb it, and to send us feedback-- bolts, belays, grades etc.

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Post by Mik » Sun Jul 18, 2010 9:02 am

FA Stolz, Dylan and Mike, in that order, based on the number of hours of cleaning / involvement.

FCA Stolz and Dylan based on ground up to the top.

any other information is not correct. that's the story.

i was involved in 14/18 pitches in the cleaning / FA and on the FFA side i have been involved in 7/18.

[ a paragraph of this post has been deleted because it violated the terms of squamishclimbing.com -- 6. A direct comment that in any way can be seen as slander or a personal attack will be removed immediately. If it continues to happen you will be banned. ]



furthermore you move my static line without any indication to me that you would be doing so. and you take the other one down? that was to be left up there for other projects.

anyway my FA stands. the community knows of my involvement.

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Post by bradley3297 » Sun Jul 18, 2010 9:11 am

im confused
Bradley

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Post by thebigchin » Sun Jul 18, 2010 9:26 am

Good to see everyone had fun. :roll:

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Post by Brendan » Sun Jul 18, 2010 6:38 pm

Mike,

Good job on the route. I remember being super stoked since '08 to get on the thing.

Andy and I got on it yesterday, but bailed at the top of pitch 3 (it was getting dark from starting very very late). Nice climbing but will need a few more ascents before it's "solid." :p

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Post by Mik » Sun Jul 18, 2010 7:07 pm

brendan the pitches get better after the third one! :) the first two are the 'rights of passage' for the route. after some traffic they will improve for sure.

think of the daily planet 12a first pitch, now a slammed shut corner with no pro, add bolts, techy stemming. that's pitch 5.

Mike

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Post by harihari » Sun Jul 18, 2010 7:35 pm

MikeBlicker wrote:FA Stolz, Dylan and Mike, in that order, based on the number of hours of cleaning / involvement.

FCA Stolz and Dylan based on ground up to the top.

any other information is not correct. that's the story.

i was involved in 14/18 pitches in the cleaning / FA and on the FFA side i have been involved in 7/18.

[ a paragraph of this post has been deleted because it violated the terms of squamishclimbing.com -- 6. A direct comment that in any way can be seen as slander or a personal attack will be removed immediately. If it continues to happen you will be banned. ]

furthermore you move my static line without any indication to me that you would be doing so. and you take the other one down? that was to be left up there for other projects.

anyway my FA stands. the community knows of my involvement.
Facts: The first ascent (5.11b A0 version of the complete route) was July 11, 2010, by Dylan and Chris. We climbed the route ground to top that day. Mike was not there. Mike Blicker has the FFA of a # of individual pitches, as listed on one of the blog entries. Mike Blicker, as was discussed in Fall 2009, is gunning for the FCFA of the entire thing, which will include two 12+ pitches. This should be happening early Aug. We ask Squamish ropeguns to give Mike some time with the 12+ pitches. You can't put "FA" on something you did not do the first ascent on-- so Dylan and Chris get the route FA; Mike however gets the FFA for many of the pitches (including, I will add, ones he did not lead, drill or clean).

Facts (check blog) regarding days spent on route, cleaning, drilling, leading on aid, hauling lines, etc etc:

Chris: 25 days
Dylan: 13
Mike: 10 (includes 1 day with ben hauling ropes to top of V and starting V-cleaning)
Ian: 2
Tony 1
Kasper 1
Ben 1

Chris & Dylan have, and have had, full-time jobs and girlfriends who don't climb, Dylan has been doing accounting training (3 modules so far) and Chris was away for 5 of the 8 weeks of last summer. When we had one day a week to clean, we cleaned. We sacrificed basically one climbing season to make this route.

Regarding the fixed lines: the top (white) fixed lines had to come down, since the route is now open to the public (people were on it on Sat). The orange fixed line was moved, on my own, by me, and allows anybody trying to work the 12+ pitches to have access to those pitches. The only change has been, it now goes to the top of the 2nd 12+ pitch, and one bolt has been added beside P2 (out of sight of the climbing) so that people who want to climb the 11b version can do so without crossing fixed lines. Mike, who is working P5 and P7, has perfect access to both.

If anybody wants to climb "variations" then they are welcome to do it-- right now, you can jug tot he top of P7, from which one can set out rightward, or climb the next two pitches and then rap in.

I am quite enjoying the invective-- it is true that I am a coward, cos I was sure shaking in my boots few times on that route, esp. leading the pitches on aid! I had to back off of one cos it was too scary; luckily Driller was there to save my weak and fearful a$%. And yes, Driller and I tried to kill Perry and Jia...fortunately, a forthright apology was issued, and a productive discussion regarding cleaning ethics ensued. I would like to add that people other than also trundled rocks off the 18th pitch of the route while installing top-down fixed lines.

So good luck with the fcfa and those 12 pitches!

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Post by harihari » Sun Jul 18, 2010 7:38 pm

MikeBlicker wrote:brendan the pitches get better after the third one! :) the first two are the 'rights of passage' for the route. after some traffic they will improve for sure.

think of the daily planet 12a first pitch, now a slammed shut corner with no pro, add bolts, techy stemming. that's pitch 5.

Mike
yea Brendan, Mike is right, the 2nd pitch is a bit scrappy, but it gets better. the at 2nd pitch will clean up with a few more ascents. #3 is a delight but even better stuff is up higher...the v-slot is pretty awesome. The 10b slab traverse is a bit mossy but the holds and fet are totally clean, you should nto have a problem You think the gerades are ok? 10d, 9m11b?

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Post by Brendan » Sun Jul 18, 2010 8:25 pm

harihari,

Grades seem fine, but I am not the best with that stuff (ask Mike).

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Post by Brendan » Sun Jul 18, 2010 8:28 pm

Just thought I'd add that that p3 .11- finger crack was an incredible find! What a score 8)

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