Access News/Gondola Update Please Read!!!!
Access News/Gondola Update Please Read!!!!
CLIMBERS' ACCESS SOCIETY OF B.C.
ACCESS ALERT - AUGUST 2004
Greetings! This message is from the Access Society, with current information and updates about climbing access and related issues in B.C. We hope the news is useful, and encourage readers to share, post and forward it. Our apologies if this broadcast is overly lengthy, or unwanted!
Highlights:
1. Information on a proposal to build a gondola to the top of the Stawamus Chief, and how you can get involved. Please read this asap!
2. Adopt-a-Crag at Squamish's Smoke Bluffs, on Saturday September 11th.
3. Other news from the Squamish and Sea-to-Sky region.
4. Miscellaneous - website update, the annual general meeting, etc.
A. Stawamus Chief Gondola Proposal
The Stawamus Chief, and surrounding cliffs, are an outstanding landmark and natural feature, only 50 km north of Vancouver. They offer world-class rock climbing, some of the most heavily-used trails in B.C., excellent camping, and superb vantage points. There are tens of thousands of annual climber-days at the Chief. It is B.C.'s home crag, and a 2004 estimate is that recreation at the Chief contributes $20 million annually to the area. Many climbers have moved to Squamish because of the Chief, and it has an important role in the culture and economy of the area. The Chief is largely old-growth forest, apart from the highway/powerline swath in front.
A proposal has been made to the B.C. government, to build a gondola to the second summit of the Chief. It would be based at the gravel pit between Stawamus Chief and Shannon Falls provincial parks, and would ascend via numerous towers to the Bulletheads, the top of Tantalus Wall, the upper backside of the first summit, to a terminal on the second summit. About a hectare on the second summit would be enclosed, with an observation deck and various facilities. Gondola capacity would be 880 passengers/hour. The proposal appears well-financed and serious, and is consistent with government plans for economic development and tourism in the area.
The Stawamus Chief became a Class A provincial park in 1995. For the gondola proposal to proceed, the government would have to overrule the 1997 park master plan, which after two years of community consultation affirmed that the Chief is a natural and unique landmark of cultural importance to British Columbians. The master plan prohibited mechanical lift access, but the government made changes to the Park Act in 2003 which allow it to override the plan if it wishes.
Representatives of the Squamish Access Society, an informal, organized group of Squamish climbers affiliated with the Access Society, met with the gondola proponents several months ago, received a great deal of information about the project, discussed it, and then wrote to the government to express concerns. It was then hoped that, having been giving a fair hearing, the proposal would quietly die. However, the eventual reply from the Minister of Water, Land and Air Protection was as follows:
“The management plan for Stawamus Chief Provincial Park was completed in 1997 following extensive public input. Mechanized access to the Chief is not consistent with the plan, and therefore, under the current management plan, a gondola could not be permitted. The ministry has informed the proponents that they may choose to seek community support for an amendment to the management plan. In order to do so, the proponent will be required to consult in an open and transparent manner with the local community, First Nations, interested or affected public agencies, users and stakeholder groups. The proponent has indicated that they are interested in pursuing this option. It is expected that public consultations may occur in the fall of this year, in which case I encourage you to participate in the process to ensure your perspectives are brought forward. Should those consultations demonstrate broad community support for a continuation of the park's management plan to restrict mechanized access on the Chief, then we would reflect those wishes.”
The nature of the consultative process is not yet known, and the Access Society believes that the government should manage the process and ensure it is impartial. The gondola proposal is being given serious consideration, and community opinion will be an important factor in the government decision. The Access Society will work, particularly with the Squamish Access Society and the Friends of the Chief (friendsofthechief@yahoo.ca), to ensure climbers’ interests and views are represented. We will also publicize developments through our website, broadcast e-mails, and the autumn edition of Access News. It seems likely that information about the proposal will be published, and there will be public meetings, but more is not yet known.
The proposal was discussed on CBC Radio's Early Edition in mid-August, and Megan Olesky, of Friends of the Chief, will be interviewed on AM600 Radio's Rafe Mair show about it at 9:15 AM on Monday August 23rd. 600 kHz in Vancouver, rebroadcast on other stations around B.C., or www.600am.com. Listeners can call (604) 280-0600 and comment.
For now, you can write, phone or e-mail and express your views on the project. The concerned officials:
Bill Barisoff, Minister of Water, Land and Air Protection
P.O. Box 9047, St'n. Prov. Gov't.
Victoria, B.C.
Canada V8W 9E2
(250) 387-1187, or WLAP.Minister@gems9.gov.bc.ca
Gordon Campbell, Premier
P.O. Box 9041, St'n. Prov. Gov't.
Victoria, B.C.
Canada V8W 9E1
Phone (250) 387-1715, or premier@gov.bc.ca
Ian Sutherland, Mayor
District of Squamish
P.O. Box 310
Squamish, B.C.
Canada V0N 3G0
Phone 1-877-892-5217, or isutherland@squamish.ca
Please write or call! A written letter counts for significantly more than an e-mail, and an e-mail for significantly more than a phone call - very simply, the more effort you put into whatever you send/say, the more impact it has. Please:
a) cc the Access Society (see 'contact us' on the website) with anything you send;
b) be polite, and brief;
c) identify who you are, where you live, who you represent (if anyone besides yourself), your interest in the area and issue, your views on the gondola proposal, and the reasons for them;
d) be as reasonable and constructive as you can - there are many aspects to this issue; and
e) be clear about what you support, or oppose.
The Access Society particularly encourages climbers, and climbers' organizations, from outside B.C. to write and express their concerns.
There are also petitions in Squamish-area climbing stores, and petitions may appear elsewhere. Other actions - website information, meetings, broadcast e-mails, attending public meetings - will occur as the occasion demands.
The Access Society's position with respect to the Stawamus Chief gondola proposal is that a gondola of this kind would be appropriate somewhere in the Squamish area, if well planned and designed, and if supported by First Peoples, governments, affected interest groups, and the public. A gondola within Stawamus Chief provincial park is not appropriate. It would:
a) be contrary to the master plan,
b) significantly conflict with existing low-impact users (climbers, hikers, campers, viewers),
c) mar a geological, visual and cultural landmark, and
d) negatively affect the Chief's standing as a national and international landmark and recreational resource.
The proposal also seems likely to generate substantial public comment, and may affect the peregrine falcons which nest on the Chief. There are alternative sites in the Squamish area that would not conflict with existing uses, or have such high environmental, community and visual impacts.
B. Squamish Adopt-a-Crag 2004
The Access Society's annual Squamish Adopt-a-Crag event will be at 9:00 AM on Saturday September 11th, at the Smoke Bluffs. Meet at the parking lot, and bring suitable clothing and shoes, food and drink, and hand tools (gloves, shovels, brooms, picks, saws, pry bars, safety equipment, etc). We’ll work on the Loop Trail, finish the new Penny Lane trail and the Alexis trail, do some clean-up, and other projects. There’ll also be refreshments, draw prizes, an informal social afterward, and other fun. Last year we had almost 50 helpers, and we hope to do better in 2004. Please let us know if you’ll attend, by sending an e-mail to squamish@access-society.ca.
Adopt-a-Crag is a U.S. and Canada wide volunteer event, organized each September by our friends at the Access Fund (www.accessfund.org). This is the fifth annual Adopt-a-Crag. The Access Society and its affiliates have already had several Adopt-a-Crag events elsewhere in B.C. this year, including Skaha, Powell River, and Crest Crags.
National Adopt-a-Crag sponsors include Recreational Equipment, Inc., W.L. Gore & Associates, Clif Bar, Nalgene, All-Terrain (natural bug repellent and sun screen), and others. The Access Society is seeking sponsors, especially in B.C. and Canada, for our event - draw prizes, publicity, and financial support are all welcome! Contact info@access-society.ca if you can help.
C. Squamish and Sea-to-Sky News
There's a lot happening in this region, with enormous implications for the climbing community. Apart from the Chief gondola proposal, issues include temporary closure of climbs in the Gorge at Cheakamus Canyon, the Sea-to-Sky Highway Improvement Project, the future of climbing at Rogues' Gallery, the Smoke Bluffs, the Sea-to-Sky Land and Resource Management Plan, the upper and lower Malamute, the 2010 winter Olympics, forestry road maintenance and deactivation, commercial backcountry license applications, motorized activities, and the summer and winter backcountry recreation sharing accords. Plus our socioeconomic study of climbing in the area. The Access Society and the Squamish Access Society have been working hard on all these issues. Current developments on some of these issues are summarized below, but please see our recently updated website (www.access-society.ca) for more information.
Squamish Access Society
Several months ago, largely in response to concerns over Highway 99 rebuilding, a group of Squamish-based climbers formed the Squamish Access Society, an informal but quite organized group. The chair is Kevin McLane, with Tyrone Brett and John Howe acting as co-chairs, and they have been working very hard on behalf of the climbing community. The goal of the SAS is to ensure that the interests of climbers at Squamish, and in the Sea-to-Sky region generally, are well represented with senior government. It is affiliated with and works with the Access Society. The SAS has had two open climbers’ meetings in Squamish since late June, both of which had 40-50 climbers present. The meetings were to inform the climbing community of current issues and activities, and to get feedback. Interestingly, in an informal poll a big concern of many climbers was security from theft and vandalism.
Sea-to-Sky Highway - Culliton-Cheakamus Project
Work on the Culliton-Cheakamus section of the highway continues, and should be finished this autumn. Climbers using the Conroy Creek forest service road should comply with all posted restrictions on use of the road and the parking area. They may be closed during the week (including evenings), due to blasting, storage, and use by heavy machinery. If so, please park where permitted off the highway, and walk from there. Make sure workers know you’re there, do what you’re asked, be polite, and don’t get in the way. The road may be open on weekends, though it may be rough, and there are restrictions at the parking area.
If you climb anywhere in the Culliton-Cheakamus project area, there are significant public safety concerns, at all times. The risks include blasting and heavy equipment use, as well as crews having to manage climbers while work is underway. If you are climbing anywhere in the work section, or nearby, please obey all posted restrictions, and heed what workers ask. Those big, freshly blasted rocks didn’t land on and near the Gorge, the Gym, Rehab Project, and Sport Temple by chance. All approaches and climbs in the Gorge are currently posted as closed, likely to the end of September, and are at very high risk of rock fall until highway work is finished and remediation complete.
There are frequent short daytime/weekday closures in the Culliton-Cheakamus section, and many evening and night time closures – check for updates at 1-877-472-3399, or at www.seatoskyimprovements.ca/. If you're in the area, make sure workers know that you're there, and heed all signs.
When work began on the Culliton-Cheakamus project, the Access Society discussed the potential impacts on climbs and climbers' access with the Ministry of Transport, and agreed on outcomes. The work has had substantial impact on access and climbs, of which we have graphic evidence. This includes obliteration of the access to the Gorge, damage to climbs (holds, ledges) from falling rock, and deposition of loose rock. Not to mention a lot of rock in the Cheakamus River, which has salmon. The SAS and the Access Society are discussing remediation of those impacts with the Ministry.
Rogues' Gallery - Cheakamus Canyon
The parking area for Rogues' Gallery is within what is called the Garibaldi Civil Defence Zone. There was a massive landslide from the Garibaldi Lake Barrier in the mid-19th century. Fears of a recurrence led the provincial government to close what it perceived as the danger area, in the late 1970s. Transient human activity, e.g. highway use, is permitted in the area, but no activities that would expose humans to ongoing hazard. Over time, the closure has become somewhat loosely enforced. The area from Daisy Lake to the head of Cheakamus Canyon is now heavily used by kayakers for parking and river activities, many park at the popular Garibaldi Lake trailhead, and of course there is parking at Rogues' Gallery. It appears that an implicit goal of the Sea-to-Sky Highway Improvement Project is to address this - essentially all roadside parking would be prohibited, from the new salt sheds north. (The cliffs themselves are largely above the threatened level.)
The Access Society commissioned a professional geotechnical report on climbing and parking at Rogues' Gallery, and management of them in light of the civil defence zone and public safety concerns. There do not seem to be viable alternatives to parking at or near the present location. Our report indicated that the landslide risk in the area may have been over-stated, which is not unlikely given that the original closure was rather 'broad brush', and that there was no climbing in the area at the time. We are discussing issues surrounding this with the responsible government officials.
Smoke Bluffs
The District of Squamish has begun planning for management of this area as a municipal park. There are many issues to consider, and it will take some time. Perry Beckham, a climber, Smoke Bluffs resident, and member of the District’s select committee on outdoor recreation, is leading the process, which will involve all stakeholders, and should lead to a result by the end of 2004. The District also recently acquired the land the Loggers' Lane parking lot is on, as well as a needed in-between piece, re-zoned them so that their use for parking is legal, and has now graded some of the new land to provide more room. The District also recently installed a sign at the entrance to the parking lot, which says “Smoke Bluffs Park”. Thanks to District council and staff for their help with these matters! We welcome input and involvement regarding issues in Squamish, and the Sea-to-Sky area, and encourage you to contact the SAS and the Access Society - squamish@access-society.ca.
D. Miscellaneous
Southwest B.C. Ice Climbing Conditions Report
For some years, the Access Society has hosted an ice climbing conditions report on its webpage. This seemed a useful service which facilitated access - information focussed on winter conditions in the Lillooet area. With our redesigned and updated webpage, we are wondering what to do with the ice climbing sub-page. Some feel it isn't particularly relevant to the Access Society's main mission, others feel it a useful service, others prefer it stay on a Canadian-based website, the Access Society's being seen as the default home. Its webmaster, Adrian Burke, is willing to continue looking after it. We welcome comments from our members, and users of the ice climbing conditions page, as to what we should do.
Website Update
The Access Society's new website (www.access-society.ca) went live in late June, after a lot of work by Mike Hengeveld, Conor Reynolds, Brock Wilson and Phil Hollman. A first round of updates was posted in mid-August. Some further changes to design and layout, and of course regular updates, are planned. We welcome comments, corrections, suggestions, and help with upgrades.
Forest Fire Closures
The recent sustained damp weather appears to have ended the possibility of forest fire climbing access closures in 2004 in much of southern B.C. We'll post and broadcast any update as it becomes available.
Annual General Meeting
The Access Society's AGM will be in mid to late October, this year in Squamish. Detail TBA. A few new directors are needed - please contact directors@access-society.ca if you're interested in helping. There will probably be an issue of Access News in early October.
Darryl Hatten
Darryl Hatten, a prominent Squamish climber in the 1970s, died in Victoria on August 21st, as a result of injuries sustained in a fall from a tree. He was in his late 40s, and leaves a brother, sister, mother, girlfriend, other family, and innumerable climbing friends. Darryl started climbing in the early 1970s, and made many significant ascents at Squamish and in Yosemite, particularly with Eric Weinstein. His forte was aid and wall climbing. At Squamish, he climbed Up From the Skies, Cerberus, Getting Down on the Brown, Pan Granitic Frogman, and Son of Pan. And the first free ascent of the Split Pillar on the Grand Wall, in 1975. His ascents in Yosemite included the North American Wall, very early ascents of the Zodiac, the Shield, and Electric Ladyland, and the second ascent of El Capitan's Pacific Ocean route (1977), then the hardest wall climb in the world. Darryl was well known for his energy and enthusiasm, his loyalty to his friends, his beer drinking capacity, and his occasional exuberance. He was also a skilled tree topper and later tree surgeon, sometimes known as 'Doug Fir'. Darryl had occasional brushes with the authorities, most famously for riding a bicycle (nude) through Yosemite Valley's Four Seasons restaurant, a stunt which led to his being banned from the Park. It is not yet known whether/where/when there will be a service, but Darryl's climbing friends hope to have an appropriate event to mark his passing.
Thank you!
Anders Ourom (president)
(604) 228-1798
ACCESS ALERT - AUGUST 2004
Greetings! This message is from the Access Society, with current information and updates about climbing access and related issues in B.C. We hope the news is useful, and encourage readers to share, post and forward it. Our apologies if this broadcast is overly lengthy, or unwanted!
Highlights:
1. Information on a proposal to build a gondola to the top of the Stawamus Chief, and how you can get involved. Please read this asap!
2. Adopt-a-Crag at Squamish's Smoke Bluffs, on Saturday September 11th.
3. Other news from the Squamish and Sea-to-Sky region.
4. Miscellaneous - website update, the annual general meeting, etc.
A. Stawamus Chief Gondola Proposal
The Stawamus Chief, and surrounding cliffs, are an outstanding landmark and natural feature, only 50 km north of Vancouver. They offer world-class rock climbing, some of the most heavily-used trails in B.C., excellent camping, and superb vantage points. There are tens of thousands of annual climber-days at the Chief. It is B.C.'s home crag, and a 2004 estimate is that recreation at the Chief contributes $20 million annually to the area. Many climbers have moved to Squamish because of the Chief, and it has an important role in the culture and economy of the area. The Chief is largely old-growth forest, apart from the highway/powerline swath in front.
A proposal has been made to the B.C. government, to build a gondola to the second summit of the Chief. It would be based at the gravel pit between Stawamus Chief and Shannon Falls provincial parks, and would ascend via numerous towers to the Bulletheads, the top of Tantalus Wall, the upper backside of the first summit, to a terminal on the second summit. About a hectare on the second summit would be enclosed, with an observation deck and various facilities. Gondola capacity would be 880 passengers/hour. The proposal appears well-financed and serious, and is consistent with government plans for economic development and tourism in the area.
The Stawamus Chief became a Class A provincial park in 1995. For the gondola proposal to proceed, the government would have to overrule the 1997 park master plan, which after two years of community consultation affirmed that the Chief is a natural and unique landmark of cultural importance to British Columbians. The master plan prohibited mechanical lift access, but the government made changes to the Park Act in 2003 which allow it to override the plan if it wishes.
Representatives of the Squamish Access Society, an informal, organized group of Squamish climbers affiliated with the Access Society, met with the gondola proponents several months ago, received a great deal of information about the project, discussed it, and then wrote to the government to express concerns. It was then hoped that, having been giving a fair hearing, the proposal would quietly die. However, the eventual reply from the Minister of Water, Land and Air Protection was as follows:
“The management plan for Stawamus Chief Provincial Park was completed in 1997 following extensive public input. Mechanized access to the Chief is not consistent with the plan, and therefore, under the current management plan, a gondola could not be permitted. The ministry has informed the proponents that they may choose to seek community support for an amendment to the management plan. In order to do so, the proponent will be required to consult in an open and transparent manner with the local community, First Nations, interested or affected public agencies, users and stakeholder groups. The proponent has indicated that they are interested in pursuing this option. It is expected that public consultations may occur in the fall of this year, in which case I encourage you to participate in the process to ensure your perspectives are brought forward. Should those consultations demonstrate broad community support for a continuation of the park's management plan to restrict mechanized access on the Chief, then we would reflect those wishes.”
The nature of the consultative process is not yet known, and the Access Society believes that the government should manage the process and ensure it is impartial. The gondola proposal is being given serious consideration, and community opinion will be an important factor in the government decision. The Access Society will work, particularly with the Squamish Access Society and the Friends of the Chief (friendsofthechief@yahoo.ca), to ensure climbers’ interests and views are represented. We will also publicize developments through our website, broadcast e-mails, and the autumn edition of Access News. It seems likely that information about the proposal will be published, and there will be public meetings, but more is not yet known.
The proposal was discussed on CBC Radio's Early Edition in mid-August, and Megan Olesky, of Friends of the Chief, will be interviewed on AM600 Radio's Rafe Mair show about it at 9:15 AM on Monday August 23rd. 600 kHz in Vancouver, rebroadcast on other stations around B.C., or www.600am.com. Listeners can call (604) 280-0600 and comment.
For now, you can write, phone or e-mail and express your views on the project. The concerned officials:
Bill Barisoff, Minister of Water, Land and Air Protection
P.O. Box 9047, St'n. Prov. Gov't.
Victoria, B.C.
Canada V8W 9E2
(250) 387-1187, or WLAP.Minister@gems9.gov.bc.ca
Gordon Campbell, Premier
P.O. Box 9041, St'n. Prov. Gov't.
Victoria, B.C.
Canada V8W 9E1
Phone (250) 387-1715, or premier@gov.bc.ca
Ian Sutherland, Mayor
District of Squamish
P.O. Box 310
Squamish, B.C.
Canada V0N 3G0
Phone 1-877-892-5217, or isutherland@squamish.ca
Please write or call! A written letter counts for significantly more than an e-mail, and an e-mail for significantly more than a phone call - very simply, the more effort you put into whatever you send/say, the more impact it has. Please:
a) cc the Access Society (see 'contact us' on the website) with anything you send;
b) be polite, and brief;
c) identify who you are, where you live, who you represent (if anyone besides yourself), your interest in the area and issue, your views on the gondola proposal, and the reasons for them;
d) be as reasonable and constructive as you can - there are many aspects to this issue; and
e) be clear about what you support, or oppose.
The Access Society particularly encourages climbers, and climbers' organizations, from outside B.C. to write and express their concerns.
There are also petitions in Squamish-area climbing stores, and petitions may appear elsewhere. Other actions - website information, meetings, broadcast e-mails, attending public meetings - will occur as the occasion demands.
The Access Society's position with respect to the Stawamus Chief gondola proposal is that a gondola of this kind would be appropriate somewhere in the Squamish area, if well planned and designed, and if supported by First Peoples, governments, affected interest groups, and the public. A gondola within Stawamus Chief provincial park is not appropriate. It would:
a) be contrary to the master plan,
b) significantly conflict with existing low-impact users (climbers, hikers, campers, viewers),
c) mar a geological, visual and cultural landmark, and
d) negatively affect the Chief's standing as a national and international landmark and recreational resource.
The proposal also seems likely to generate substantial public comment, and may affect the peregrine falcons which nest on the Chief. There are alternative sites in the Squamish area that would not conflict with existing uses, or have such high environmental, community and visual impacts.
B. Squamish Adopt-a-Crag 2004
The Access Society's annual Squamish Adopt-a-Crag event will be at 9:00 AM on Saturday September 11th, at the Smoke Bluffs. Meet at the parking lot, and bring suitable clothing and shoes, food and drink, and hand tools (gloves, shovels, brooms, picks, saws, pry bars, safety equipment, etc). We’ll work on the Loop Trail, finish the new Penny Lane trail and the Alexis trail, do some clean-up, and other projects. There’ll also be refreshments, draw prizes, an informal social afterward, and other fun. Last year we had almost 50 helpers, and we hope to do better in 2004. Please let us know if you’ll attend, by sending an e-mail to squamish@access-society.ca.
Adopt-a-Crag is a U.S. and Canada wide volunteer event, organized each September by our friends at the Access Fund (www.accessfund.org). This is the fifth annual Adopt-a-Crag. The Access Society and its affiliates have already had several Adopt-a-Crag events elsewhere in B.C. this year, including Skaha, Powell River, and Crest Crags.
National Adopt-a-Crag sponsors include Recreational Equipment, Inc., W.L. Gore & Associates, Clif Bar, Nalgene, All-Terrain (natural bug repellent and sun screen), and others. The Access Society is seeking sponsors, especially in B.C. and Canada, for our event - draw prizes, publicity, and financial support are all welcome! Contact info@access-society.ca if you can help.
C. Squamish and Sea-to-Sky News
There's a lot happening in this region, with enormous implications for the climbing community. Apart from the Chief gondola proposal, issues include temporary closure of climbs in the Gorge at Cheakamus Canyon, the Sea-to-Sky Highway Improvement Project, the future of climbing at Rogues' Gallery, the Smoke Bluffs, the Sea-to-Sky Land and Resource Management Plan, the upper and lower Malamute, the 2010 winter Olympics, forestry road maintenance and deactivation, commercial backcountry license applications, motorized activities, and the summer and winter backcountry recreation sharing accords. Plus our socioeconomic study of climbing in the area. The Access Society and the Squamish Access Society have been working hard on all these issues. Current developments on some of these issues are summarized below, but please see our recently updated website (www.access-society.ca) for more information.
Squamish Access Society
Several months ago, largely in response to concerns over Highway 99 rebuilding, a group of Squamish-based climbers formed the Squamish Access Society, an informal but quite organized group. The chair is Kevin McLane, with Tyrone Brett and John Howe acting as co-chairs, and they have been working very hard on behalf of the climbing community. The goal of the SAS is to ensure that the interests of climbers at Squamish, and in the Sea-to-Sky region generally, are well represented with senior government. It is affiliated with and works with the Access Society. The SAS has had two open climbers’ meetings in Squamish since late June, both of which had 40-50 climbers present. The meetings were to inform the climbing community of current issues and activities, and to get feedback. Interestingly, in an informal poll a big concern of many climbers was security from theft and vandalism.
Sea-to-Sky Highway - Culliton-Cheakamus Project
Work on the Culliton-Cheakamus section of the highway continues, and should be finished this autumn. Climbers using the Conroy Creek forest service road should comply with all posted restrictions on use of the road and the parking area. They may be closed during the week (including evenings), due to blasting, storage, and use by heavy machinery. If so, please park where permitted off the highway, and walk from there. Make sure workers know you’re there, do what you’re asked, be polite, and don’t get in the way. The road may be open on weekends, though it may be rough, and there are restrictions at the parking area.
If you climb anywhere in the Culliton-Cheakamus project area, there are significant public safety concerns, at all times. The risks include blasting and heavy equipment use, as well as crews having to manage climbers while work is underway. If you are climbing anywhere in the work section, or nearby, please obey all posted restrictions, and heed what workers ask. Those big, freshly blasted rocks didn’t land on and near the Gorge, the Gym, Rehab Project, and Sport Temple by chance. All approaches and climbs in the Gorge are currently posted as closed, likely to the end of September, and are at very high risk of rock fall until highway work is finished and remediation complete.
There are frequent short daytime/weekday closures in the Culliton-Cheakamus section, and many evening and night time closures – check for updates at 1-877-472-3399, or at www.seatoskyimprovements.ca/. If you're in the area, make sure workers know that you're there, and heed all signs.
When work began on the Culliton-Cheakamus project, the Access Society discussed the potential impacts on climbs and climbers' access with the Ministry of Transport, and agreed on outcomes. The work has had substantial impact on access and climbs, of which we have graphic evidence. This includes obliteration of the access to the Gorge, damage to climbs (holds, ledges) from falling rock, and deposition of loose rock. Not to mention a lot of rock in the Cheakamus River, which has salmon. The SAS and the Access Society are discussing remediation of those impacts with the Ministry.
Rogues' Gallery - Cheakamus Canyon
The parking area for Rogues' Gallery is within what is called the Garibaldi Civil Defence Zone. There was a massive landslide from the Garibaldi Lake Barrier in the mid-19th century. Fears of a recurrence led the provincial government to close what it perceived as the danger area, in the late 1970s. Transient human activity, e.g. highway use, is permitted in the area, but no activities that would expose humans to ongoing hazard. Over time, the closure has become somewhat loosely enforced. The area from Daisy Lake to the head of Cheakamus Canyon is now heavily used by kayakers for parking and river activities, many park at the popular Garibaldi Lake trailhead, and of course there is parking at Rogues' Gallery. It appears that an implicit goal of the Sea-to-Sky Highway Improvement Project is to address this - essentially all roadside parking would be prohibited, from the new salt sheds north. (The cliffs themselves are largely above the threatened level.)
The Access Society commissioned a professional geotechnical report on climbing and parking at Rogues' Gallery, and management of them in light of the civil defence zone and public safety concerns. There do not seem to be viable alternatives to parking at or near the present location. Our report indicated that the landslide risk in the area may have been over-stated, which is not unlikely given that the original closure was rather 'broad brush', and that there was no climbing in the area at the time. We are discussing issues surrounding this with the responsible government officials.
Smoke Bluffs
The District of Squamish has begun planning for management of this area as a municipal park. There are many issues to consider, and it will take some time. Perry Beckham, a climber, Smoke Bluffs resident, and member of the District’s select committee on outdoor recreation, is leading the process, which will involve all stakeholders, and should lead to a result by the end of 2004. The District also recently acquired the land the Loggers' Lane parking lot is on, as well as a needed in-between piece, re-zoned them so that their use for parking is legal, and has now graded some of the new land to provide more room. The District also recently installed a sign at the entrance to the parking lot, which says “Smoke Bluffs Park”. Thanks to District council and staff for their help with these matters! We welcome input and involvement regarding issues in Squamish, and the Sea-to-Sky area, and encourage you to contact the SAS and the Access Society - squamish@access-society.ca.
D. Miscellaneous
Southwest B.C. Ice Climbing Conditions Report
For some years, the Access Society has hosted an ice climbing conditions report on its webpage. This seemed a useful service which facilitated access - information focussed on winter conditions in the Lillooet area. With our redesigned and updated webpage, we are wondering what to do with the ice climbing sub-page. Some feel it isn't particularly relevant to the Access Society's main mission, others feel it a useful service, others prefer it stay on a Canadian-based website, the Access Society's being seen as the default home. Its webmaster, Adrian Burke, is willing to continue looking after it. We welcome comments from our members, and users of the ice climbing conditions page, as to what we should do.
Website Update
The Access Society's new website (www.access-society.ca) went live in late June, after a lot of work by Mike Hengeveld, Conor Reynolds, Brock Wilson and Phil Hollman. A first round of updates was posted in mid-August. Some further changes to design and layout, and of course regular updates, are planned. We welcome comments, corrections, suggestions, and help with upgrades.
Forest Fire Closures
The recent sustained damp weather appears to have ended the possibility of forest fire climbing access closures in 2004 in much of southern B.C. We'll post and broadcast any update as it becomes available.
Annual General Meeting
The Access Society's AGM will be in mid to late October, this year in Squamish. Detail TBA. A few new directors are needed - please contact directors@access-society.ca if you're interested in helping. There will probably be an issue of Access News in early October.
Darryl Hatten
Darryl Hatten, a prominent Squamish climber in the 1970s, died in Victoria on August 21st, as a result of injuries sustained in a fall from a tree. He was in his late 40s, and leaves a brother, sister, mother, girlfriend, other family, and innumerable climbing friends. Darryl started climbing in the early 1970s, and made many significant ascents at Squamish and in Yosemite, particularly with Eric Weinstein. His forte was aid and wall climbing. At Squamish, he climbed Up From the Skies, Cerberus, Getting Down on the Brown, Pan Granitic Frogman, and Son of Pan. And the first free ascent of the Split Pillar on the Grand Wall, in 1975. His ascents in Yosemite included the North American Wall, very early ascents of the Zodiac, the Shield, and Electric Ladyland, and the second ascent of El Capitan's Pacific Ocean route (1977), then the hardest wall climb in the world. Darryl was well known for his energy and enthusiasm, his loyalty to his friends, his beer drinking capacity, and his occasional exuberance. He was also a skilled tree topper and later tree surgeon, sometimes known as 'Doug Fir'. Darryl had occasional brushes with the authorities, most famously for riding a bicycle (nude) through Yosemite Valley's Four Seasons restaurant, a stunt which led to his being banned from the Park. It is not yet known whether/where/when there will be a service, but Darryl's climbing friends hope to have an appropriate event to mark his passing.
Thank you!
Anders Ourom (president)
(604) 228-1798
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