torching the granite dry?

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rich k
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Post by rich k » Thu Dec 07, 2006 3:14 pm

psychedelic wrote:Damn't I didn't know holds broke. I haven't gone bouldering up there in quite a while. I fondled heather once and was hoping to get at it next time I was up that way.
i haven't been on her in a while either. it definitely broke, then broke again i think, but that was like 3 or 4 years ago? you might've been back on it since then. should still go...
erock wrote:where is heather? you guys arent talking about heather graham are you? maybe i'm totally confused but that's up by gibbs cave right?
yes and yes

rich k
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Post by rich k » Thu Dec 07, 2006 3:26 pm

how can you know the results of your 'test' will give you the answers you're after? (definitely stay off established problems)

virgin granite is different from granite that has been climbed on. how long will you have to torch a blank section of rock before you've done a proper simulation?

it is OBVIOUS that torches polish holds. look at the crimp on no troublems, look at the slopers on gibbs. 2 prime examples. you don't have to be a scientist to see this. leave the torches at home.

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Mike C.
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Post by Mike C. » Sat Dec 09, 2006 5:10 am

the crimp on no troblems has always felt slick, since day one. some people even insist that its seeping and thats why they're falling off...or maybe they just didn't eat their wheeties.

:)
And how is education supposed to make me feel smarter? Besides, every time I learn something new, it pushes some old stuff out of my brain. Remember when I took that home winemaking course, and I forgot how to drive? --Homer Simpson

pitonspud
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Post by pitonspud » Mon Dec 18, 2006 9:51 pm

:shock: torching is lame... I am assuming torching is probably something sports' climbers do. LAME :shock:

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MCpl
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Post by MCpl » Mon Dec 18, 2006 10:39 pm

This thread has been cold for awhile after some very good contributions by many on this site. But then arrives pitonspud with the biggest contribution yet.

pitonspud, I bet your mom and dad are real proud of you. You've grown up to be a troll on online forums. Big thumbs up to you.

You have to remember that this whole thread was started because rich k was commenting on him watching Didier Bethod (probably one of the most prolific trad climbers of our day) using a blowtorch on Cobra Crack.

original gorby
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Post by original gorby » Tue Dec 19, 2006 10:20 am

You know what..... Torching (or chipping, or glueing) of any established routes or problems is LAME!
Doesn't matter if it is a boulder problem, sport climb or trad route.
It is very poor style to engage in an activity that damages the rock on an existing route. A few words come to mind... impatient, egotistical, lazy, ignorant, disrespectful, unethical, etc...
There is no excuse for this behaviour - my friends and I don't give a flying f@#k if you are only in town for a limited time and want to tick something off of your little list. That does not give you the right to damage the rock for everybody. Doesn't matter if your name is Berthod or Caldwell or Billy Jo Toproper.

I am surprised that it even needs to be discussed - seems like common sense to me.

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