New start to Calculus Crack

[Khoi]

FINALLY got the chance to do it!

I found the first few moves to be the crux, but it could be because I wasn't fully awake yet.

This new start is so far superior to that bushwhack while swinging up trees! At last, Calculus Crack and St. Vitus' Dance have the start they deserve.

But what happened to the rock topo on the stone tablet that was at the base???

[Anders Ourom]

What's wrong with swinging in trees? Some argue that it isn't a true Squamish route unless at some point you've relied on trees or shrubberies for progress, anchors, or both.

[Anders Ourom]

Kris: Does anyone know who cleaned up the slab and low angle crack above what most people consider Calculus crack?

Is this the original finish to South Arete? Originally SA climbed a crack to a small ledge just above an overhang, where you belayed. Then up a short crack to climber's right on the ledge, and up the slab above, with IIRC two bolts, and eventually back to the crack. Someone has added a bunch of unnecessary bolts there - unnecessary in that it's always easy to step left into the continuation of the SA crack, its "direct" finish.

[natsdad]

Hi Folks:

I've climbed both starts to Calculus Crack and think that they both have pros and cons. Although the tree start is a bit awkward, it leads up to some great corner climbing that is challenging and thought provoking, for the grade.

The newer start is great and keeps the grade more moderate, plus the wide and steep crack climbing higher up is very fun.

Enjoy them all and thanks to all the FA'ists for opening them up!
Steve

[gnarnaphobe]

Actually by my count there is three starts to calculus, and they are all great!

[hans]

I've done four, and I think there is at least five.

[timelessbeing]

My friend and I climbed this route today. It was clean and dry, easy to find, and good fun. The corner on P1 is the tricky bit. It helps to use all the surrounding rock. 5.9 seems right. Going straight over the bulge at the start of P2 is spicy and rewarding. While the bolts at the top aren't necessary, they do relieve congestion. I didn't see a topo anywhere, but the description in this thread is more than adequate.

After, we decided to do South Arete; A good choice because we were the only party on it, while Calculus was stacked.

Kudos to the developers.

[squamish climber]

I'd like to get on this climb this summer. How did the new start fair over winter - any moss in there? Has it become the standard start now?

Here's a nice shot of the finger crack on the route by photographer, Paul Lapides

[BlahMatt]

I did the new start again a couple weeks ago. Super clean and still super fun! Great to link with a bit of simuling (60m rope) as long as you are careful with rope management to minimize drag.

[Kyle]

It's really fun to link the 5.9 direct start into the 10.b dihedral directly above (second pitch of start from scratch) to give a true direct start to the calculus pitches above. It's about 69 meters so no need to simul with a 70m. If you choose to break the pitches up it's best to build a gear anchor. If not, expect a healthy dose of a little rope drag. Hint. Before the roof, sling long and run it out.

[Drew]

Those two dudes in the Calc Crack pic are super taped up. Must be Americans.