rope from the past

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
User avatar
Optimally-Primed
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 350
Joined: Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:04 am

Post by Optimally-Primed » Wed Feb 24, 2010 4:15 pm

I decided to wash the rope. I started it in the bathtub but found that it continually shed dirt. So I daisied it up and put it in the washing machine on delicate cycle. In hindsight, that wasn't the best idea. (Smooth move, Exlax!) )The rope has become weak over the past few decades in the rain. The result of the spin cycle was a substantial shedding... but the bulk is still in good shape, and a lot cleaner.

Image

The photo shows the pile of fur that the washing machine yielded. The question of what colour (grey, gold, or white) has now been laid to rest: it's white. In the photo, you'll also see the bowline loop of which I spoke, and a "core shot" (there is no core to this rope of course) near the loop, which may give a clue as to why it was abandoned. Hard to know when the cut took place.

I got in touch with Neil Bennett through a friend. In response to my question of whether it may have been his rope, he says:
No, I’ve never been up there. Yes to B Run but not beyond. I know a guy who was siege’ing Crescent Ramp ..... and may have had something else in mind up there but I haven’t been there. He was a pretty big guy but I’m not sure he’d have been twice around buddy in the stream. All wrapped around a log sounds like it might have been chopped, maybe the tag end swung in the breeze for many years??? I’d like to think that I have a vague memory of a rope hanging there for years but I can’t say for sure. I used goldline a very little bit and Larry Marshik still has his 3/8” 120’ goldline as I recall. Terrible stuff. Wouldn’t keep knots in it, terrible for rope drag it there were any corners. Super stiff.
The mystery continues...

Anders Ourom
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 328
Joined: Thu May 18, 2006 10:38 am

Post by Anders Ourom » Wed Feb 24, 2010 11:36 pm

I'll ask Brian Norris about this when I get a chance, but it may be a while. He was on the first ascent of Cannabis Wall in 1969, and perhaps saw or knows something. He might also advise as to whether Cannabis continued until it intersected with Crescent Ramp, or stopped a bit below. If they joined Crescent Ramp and continued to the top, that may help.

Otherwise, the rope itself seems of fairly early vintage, and could be either marine rope or goldline - it's the colour of goldline, but weathering has to be allowed for. By 1969 most would have been using perlon ropes for climbing, with a few goldline ropes around. But probably none were then using marine ropes, although there could still have been some around. Bearing in mind that they used 1/4" (!!!) polypropylene as a fixed rope on Ten Years After in 1970 (nine years after), and I remember a rope of Leif Patterson's in 1972 that may have been a marine rope.

Still, the circumstantial evidence suggests that it was left or dropped by Fred, but when and in what circumstances are unclear. Probably on the first ascent of Crescent Ramp, but maybe not.

User avatar
Optimally-Primed
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 350
Joined: Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:04 am

Post by Optimally-Primed » Sat Feb 27, 2010 6:45 pm

The rope has found a permanent home at Climb On, for all to see, thanks to Dan's willingness to provide a home.

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 35 guests