Mosquito Area

[Brendan]

Jeremy,

Now comes the big question...anchors!?
What will you do do relieve pressure on Mosquito and SM-D?

[Optimally-Primed]

Now comes the big question...anchors!?
What will you do do relieve pressure on Mosquito and SM-D?

I was considering adding an anchor to the right of the Mosquito anchor, on the wall about 2m to the right of the start of Phlemish Dance. That way, folks on No-see-um would be well out of the way on folks on the Smoke Bluffs Connection. And folks on No-see-um would be able to continue up the SBC if they so chose. If continuing on above Sphincter Quits, one could use the No-see-um anchor.

Any *constructive* thoughts?

[hafilax]

IMO it won't stay clean without an anchor (or a mention in the next guide book with some stars). The upper part looks like a dirt trap that will leak into the lower part. People will go over to Mosquito and skip the upper part unless there is an anchor there. If the upper part fills in it won't take long to return to obscurity.

[Brendan]

Any *constructive* thoughts?

Well with the traffic Mosquito alone receives, not to mention the SBC, another anchor would seem like the only logical thing to do. It's that or suffer the gang-bang which already happens on that ledge on most days.

[Aaron]

In my experience anchors that get chopped in the Smoke Bluffs are done so for one of three reasons. 1. The chopper believes that a natural anchor (tree) is suitable 2. Bolted anchors = top-ropers = crowded lines and polishing 3. the route has been Long established & is popular enough without one.

So if the anchor in question can be placed so as to persuade top-ropers, and if there isn't some sizable tree at the top of the route that any reasonable person would rap off from, then I'd say you're good to drill.

[pinner]

Aaron, do you mean persuade top-ropers to climb the new line "no-see-um" to take pressure off the heavily polished Mosquito?

Or rather to keep top-ropers off?

[Aaron]

Aaron, do you mean persuade top-ropers to climb the new line "no-see-um" to take pressure off the heavily polished Mosquito?

Or rather to keep top-ropers off?

Over the years I've seen many fixed anchors come and go. One of the excuses I've heard (and I don't necessarily agree with it) is fixed anchors attract top-ropers, and top-ropers = user conflict. A simple way to persuade them is to put the anchor in a location that makes it impossible to approached from above. In other words, if any climber uses the anchor they must first lead the route.

Aaron. [/b]

[Brendan]

Don't you have to lead Mosquito in order to get to that ledge? (haven't been up there in years).

[raingod]

[quote="Brendan....., and squeezing in new routes where there really doesn't need to be any.
Having said that, I have said nothing about Jeremy cutting down trees. In fact, cut down all the trees you want - the Chief is littered in them [/quote]

This reply is a little late but, that mother nature, she is such a squeeze artist

[Optimally-Primed]

I placed an anchor a few weekends back, about 2m right of the start of Phlegmish Dance. The goal was to keep the belayer, anchor, and rope well out of the way of parties doing the traditional Smoke Bluffs Connection. Let's see if it stays clean now... just as soon as the rain stops.

[Brendan]

Should clean things up a bit (climber wise, that is)

[rolfr]

Place a new anchor and be done with it, after all the bluffs are a KletterGarden and moving traffic always helps.

Why not push a new route up to the right of Phlegmish dance or rebrush the trail right to the routes Rolling Stones 5.8 and Rubber Soul 5.9, which Ivan and i put up years ago. Overgrown but good short beginner climbs.

Even more right of Sphinxter Quits is a very worthy overgrown 5.10b that Ivan established in 85. It is an excellent route, but was never properly cleaned to begin with and quickly grew in. Some more route potential around right.

If you want a hand on any of these projects let me know, always open to help.
Rolf Rybak

Have bolts will travel.

[Optimally-Primed]

Hey Rolf,
Thanks for all the great ideas. I think we're on the same page... to the extent that I'm a little ahead of you:

I've already placed the anchor above No-see-um (about a month ago).

And the 10b route 10m right (Rock and Roll)... I've already cleaned it about a month ago (mostly)... added an anchor too. Just needs a touch up in the spring. Stellar finger cracks on this one!

Another line near Rock and Roll? Maybe. We'll see.

And cleaning up the lines above Rock and Roll? That's in the works... so there will be a link-up parallel to the Smoke Bluff Connection: Rock and Roll, Rubber Soul, Pixie Corner.

By spring, this area will be a full crag with 5 or 6 routes in the 5.10 or less range off the ground, and plenty more above.

I'll drop you a line next time I'm headed out, see if you're available to join.

Jeremy

[Brendan]

Have bolts will travel.

Any excuse to jump into the Porsche, eh Rolf!?

[Optimally-Primed]

Just a mid-winter update for those who are sufficiently bored with skiing, ice climbing, and umbrellas. Lots of cracks at the Mosquito area...

The Rock and Roll area is all clean now. In the end, there are three lines there (from right to left):

1. Sex starts at a steep corner before following a whale back arete (2 bolts) to a juggy headwall finish out right (at the horizontal).

2. Drugs follows a shallow corner to the original finish of Rock and Roll.

3. Rock and Roll (10b) is the old Rybak route. It follows the deeper corner out left in the photo. Rather than step up and right above the corner, I'm going to straighten and lengthen it to continue up the same corner all the way.



As a preview of what's to come, the crag will have 11 routes on the lower wall (10 of which will be 5.10 or easier, and almost exclusively crack climbing). Seven of these are new or recleaned this year.

The upper tier will have 7 routes. Five (all cracks) will be new this year and all in the 5.9 or easier range. I've already recleaned the 5.9 Rubber Soul (cool little finger crack), added a hand crack beside it (LSD), and will get to Rolling Stone (5.8) soon. I also am in the process of cleaning up Curry the Dog (5.8).

We did the FA of No-see-um (5.9 immediately right of Mosquito) recently. The crux is low down at a block... and the upper V-slot makes for a nice, moderate chimney experience.

Updates to follow when I've made some more progress...

~OP