Presto at Nightmare area?

[paulc]

Hey y'all;

Anyone out there done Presto in the Nightmare rock area? I've started working it and would love any beta for the crux moves.

Also noticed that though the hangers are in great shape, the bolts/nuts are rusting pretty badly. Will be contacting MarkB regarding replacement of the bolts (in same locations).

I guess on a related note, anyone tried Limelight? The dyno moves look fun times for sure.

Cheers

Paul

[JSmith]

It's been a while but...from the jug in the corner, rt. hand crosses to the arete, lean way left, left foot on the edge of the arete, rt. foot on rt. face on peanut, left hand way high. Then, I remember you get back into the corner for a final grope move to the clipping hold (crimp). Hope that helps!
Limelight is awsome!
J.

[Peter]

I've wanted to replace those bolts for a long time. So now I'm going to, as I'm starting to work the route as well..........btw it's Sanford's route, I believe, and you don't have to ask to replace rusty bolts as long as they're in the same spot, IMO.

[paulc]

Peter;

Good on you for replacing bolts, might race you, but depends on when I get up there next. Got beta???

JSmith;

Thanks for the beta, sounds a bit different feet-wise than what I have figured out so far.

I get a R foot on the jug, R hand up, R knee scum, flag left leg hard, L hand upon the high gaston pebble, step up and toe cam, R hand to bad (really bad) crimp on R wall, step up and chuck for the pinch with the L hand, then one long move to the clip hold.

Got it up to the chuck. Grrrr, though it sure is hard.... Will try your sequence though not sure if I am strong enough to not try and trick my way past the crux moves.

Climb safe.

Paul