Info on New Route at the CG Wall?

[Blake]

Anyone know some info on what looks like a new route at the campground wall? It's on the far left side, a few minutes left of "Rainy Day".

Follows flakes and overlaps up a left-trending corner, before stepping right on a quartz dike and following at least two new bolts. We bailed at the first bolt, as I'd hit the middle of our rope and could see no chains. It was fun climbing, maybe 5.9 or so.

[Axel]

George put it up last summer. I forget what he called it but it's 5.12 something. Scary at the top too. He was thinking about going back and adding a bolt but I'm not sure if he did. I'll ask him tomorrow.

[itsonlyadream]

George put it up last summer. I forget what he called it but it's 5.12 something. Scary at the top too. He was thinking about going back and adding a bolt but I'm not sure if he did. I'll ask him tomorrow.

This route is not left of Rainy Day (Dream Away) tho it might be left of Rainy Day (Woman) but Rainy Day Woman is above CG Wall and would not be used as a landmark to climbs there.

If George was thinking of adding a bolt at the top that makes sense to me. There are small crack pockets for gear but not enough room for gear and fingers to rule out turning it into a sport climb, imho. The lower half of the climb is bolted.

Last year George was calling it Ancient Teenagers. He was also calling it "spicy" at the top.

Over the previous 3 years I had been spending a day or 2 at a time cleaning it and I did a top-rope ascent the same week Sonnie climbed Cobra Crack. Yeah, me and Sonnie in the same sentence.

I had no plans to bolt it myself - wouldn't know how - and am very glad that George did. However, I had thought of it as 1 pitch whereas George used the existing anchor on Feelin' Groovy to make it 2.

[Blake]

We are talking about 2 different climbs here. The one I mention begins to the far left of the Campground Wall, left of Rainy Day Dream Away. (the 5.10 finger crack).

It wasn't in either guidebook. After ~25m of gear-protected corners and flakes(~5.9), a quartz dike runs horizontally to the right with at least two bolts. I don't know how the pitch ends.

[itsonlyadream]

We are talking about 2 different climbs here. The one I mention begins to the far left of the Campground Wall, left of Rainy Day Dream Away. (the 5.10 finger crack).

It wasn't in either guidebook. After ~25m of gear-protected corners and flakes(~5.9), a quartz dike runs horizontally to the right with at least two bolts. I don't know how the pitch ends.

Sorry, I should have mentioned that. I knew when you said 5.9 to the bolts that it wasn't the climb the initial responder was talking about, wherever it was in relation to Rainy Day whatever.

Glad to hear about the new climb, but I don't know what it is.

Both climbs include a dike, apparently.