"What to make of it" Rant
To echo the comments of a few previous posts, I have managed to climb popular routes in Squamish for some time now without waiting by simply getting out of bed stupid early. As an alternative, start at 7 pm and make it a quick one. Complaining about slow parties on Diedre is as pointless as those slow parties are inevitable.
Re: "What to make of it" Rant
why didn't you do sparrow or any of the other great routes right around there at a similar grade? Deirdre is a beginners' clusterfuck, that's just how it is.
you can do sparrow and then come down and THEN do deirdre! twice the climbing and no waiting.
as for the folks who blasted the Buttress and then got stuck at the final section...why don't you climb the top half of Pan Tease? if you can't climb 11c you can aid the tough bits. Or try some of the 12s? Even if you can't do all the moves you can do a lot of them and French Free the rest. or, next time you go up there, do Lower Pan Tease instead of sprinting through the bush to the base of the Buttress crux. LPT has some good pitches (the first two), and one pitch that is as good as the Buttress crux-- and way longer, too!
you can do sparrow and then come down and THEN do deirdre! twice the climbing and no waiting.
as for the folks who blasted the Buttress and then got stuck at the final section...why don't you climb the top half of Pan Tease? if you can't climb 11c you can aid the tough bits. Or try some of the 12s? Even if you can't do all the moves you can do a lot of them and French Free the rest. or, next time you go up there, do Lower Pan Tease instead of sprinting through the bush to the base of the Buttress crux. LPT has some good pitches (the first two), and one pitch that is as good as the Buttress crux-- and way longer, too!
Re: "What to make of it" Rant
thanks for the suggestion--might just give it a go.
quote="harihari"]why didn't you do sparrow or any of the other great routes right around there at a similar grade? Deirdre is a beginners' clusterfuck, that's just how it is.
you can do sparrow and then come down and THEN do deirdre! twice the climbing and no waiting.
as for the folks who blasted the Buttress and then got stuck at the final section...why don't you climb the top half of Pan Tease? if you can't climb 11c you can aid the tough bits. Or try some of the 12s? Even if you can't do all the moves you can do a lot of them and French Free the rest. or, next time you go up there, do Lower Pan Tease instead of sprinting through the bush to the base of the Buttress crux. LPT has some good pitches (the first two), and one pitch that is as good as the Buttress crux-- and way longer, too![/quote]
quote="harihari"]why didn't you do sparrow or any of the other great routes right around there at a similar grade? Deirdre is a beginners' clusterfuck, that's just how it is.
you can do sparrow and then come down and THEN do deirdre! twice the climbing and no waiting.
as for the folks who blasted the Buttress and then got stuck at the final section...why don't you climb the top half of Pan Tease? if you can't climb 11c you can aid the tough bits. Or try some of the 12s? Even if you can't do all the moves you can do a lot of them and French Free the rest. or, next time you go up there, do Lower Pan Tease instead of sprinting through the bush to the base of the Buttress crux. LPT has some good pitches (the first two), and one pitch that is as good as the Buttress crux-- and way longer, too![/quote]
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