12c/ 12d recommendations

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tobyfk
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12c/ 12d recommendations

Post by tobyfk » Sat Jun 02, 2007 7:04 pm

Wanted: Murrin/ Squamish/ Chek route to work around 12c/ 12d ... ideally more of a stamina pump than ultra-bouldery. Any suggestions? No sandbags please ...

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Post by 5.4 Slayer » Sat Jun 02, 2007 8:38 pm

Cut to the Chase is the only C I've sent. I really liked it - I'd say no move harder than V3 - my bouldering sucks a$$.

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Post by MCpl » Sat Jun 02, 2007 10:49 pm

Murrin - Mata Hari (d), Animal (c)

Squamish - Archives (d),

Chek - Bottom Feeder (d), Fleeing Hiefer (c) or continue into White Trash (d)

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Post by Jason » Sun Jun 03, 2007 6:00 pm

The Flight of the Challenger and Zap Crack are hands down the best 12c and d single pitches in the Sea-to-Sky Corridor

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Post by tobyfk » Mon Jun 04, 2007 12:33 am

Jason wrote:The Flight of the Challenger and Zap Crack are hands down the best 12c and d single pitches in the Sea-to-Sky Corridor
Thanks but FotC is a trad route, right? Is Zap Crack also? FotC does look outstanding but will save an attempt until I am more convinced about my fitness. Essentially after a 12c or 12d sport project at this point.

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Post by tobyfk » Mon Jun 04, 2007 12:34 am

MCpl wrote:Squamish - Archives
Where's Archives?

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Post by MCpl » Mon Jun 04, 2007 8:36 am

Its in amonst the Grand Wall boulders. If you're standing next to The Proposal, face north and you see a large boulder (I think its called Elven Bolt boulder), walk 10 to 15 meters and you'll be at the base of the route.

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Post by mcgarnickle » Mon Jun 04, 2007 4:07 pm

Fleeing Heifer is very popular and pretty easy 12c, a good first one at the grade.
Boiler Room at forgotten wall is damn easy 12d.
All the 5.12 rated routes at forgotten wall are soft for their grade, so just jump on any and see if you like em.
A fair for the grade 12c is Backdoor Santa, it has a really fun dyno.

Heifer Down is a really good 12d but quite hard, probably 13a, so you're probably getting sandbagged a bit on that one... Mata Hari is a classic for sure, but is pretty much the hardest 12d in the corridor. Moral of the story, next time MCpl gives you advice on routes, just be warned you're getting sandbagged hard.

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Post by MCpl » Mon Jun 04, 2007 4:40 pm

I didn't rate the routes. Straight out of the guidebook.

And he/she didn't ask for bouldery/one-move-wonder routes.

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Post by Brendan » Tue Jun 05, 2007 8:18 am

one of the BEST .12c in the S2S corridor is Heist .12c at Cal-Cheak near Whistler!

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Post by tobyfk » Wed Jun 06, 2007 1:39 am

MCpl wrote:And he/she
Surely gender is clear from the photo ...
didn't ask for bouldery/one-move-wonder routes.
That's quite right. Are any of the other routes mentioned notably bouldery?

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Post by Pete L. » Wed Jun 06, 2007 10:04 am

Panacea 12c at Pet is quite good.
Barraka (sp?) 12b at Pet is really good and probably closer to 12c. (just my opinion)

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Post by tobyfk » Wed Jun 13, 2007 9:14 pm

In Squamish right now and have been studying some of these Chek recommendations. I like the look of the Circus routes, though getting shut down by the mid-height move on Face the Music hasn't been a great start. Elsewhere does anyone know anything about La Femme Makita at the Crest or FUBAR at the Sanctuary?

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Post by 5.4 Slayer » Wed Jun 13, 2007 10:11 pm

Did you get Face the Music and Cut to the Chase mixed up? If you need beta for "Cut" you could email me. I was having a damn hard time on La Femme. Made much more headway on Made Fresh Daily.

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Post by tobyfk » Thu Jun 14, 2007 7:21 am

No I was on the right route (FtM not CttC). I had a dumb theory I could onsight it. But looks about right for 12a .. I studied it a little afterwards, while lowering from the 11c to the left

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