Buying cams

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
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dakine
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Buying cams

Post by dakine » Wed May 02, 2007 9:25 pm

hey all ,
I am looking to buy some smaller cams (playing on some gear routes) which type would you recommend?

1. Metolius Ultralight Power Cam Set 1-4

2.Metolius Ultralight TCU Set 1-4

any info or recommendations would be great ...this will be used primarily in Squamish
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YetAnotherDave
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Post by YetAnotherDave » Thu May 03, 2007 6:24 am

I'd go with the TCUs - narrower heads fit better in pin scars
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Rockitman
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Post by Rockitman » Thu May 03, 2007 9:08 am

I'm a big fan of the BD C3s

Even narrower head and fit even better in pin scars...

You really have to hold them side by side with the other brands to see how much narrower they are. There are many places where nothing else will fit (and except for the smallest one they are all full strength).
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dakine
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Post by dakine » Thu May 03, 2007 9:40 am

I really like the BD camalots i have so i will check the C3s out. thanks for the feed back!
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XXXX
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Post by XXXX » Thu May 03, 2007 10:27 am

but don't forget that wider head = more holding power

i'd go with the TCUs or some DMM cams. I tried some C3s and felt that the higher price did not result in significantly better performance compared to TCUs I already had.
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Rockitman
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Post by Rockitman » Thu May 03, 2007 10:41 am

The added width is not more holding power when it comes from the swage on the cable (not extra width in the lobes). Either way, even with wider lobes you don't necesarily get more holding power, just smaller stress on the contact surface (which is very important in soft rock, such as sandstone, but is negligible in hard rock, such as Squamish Granite).

And the deciding factor for me was that if it won't fit in the pin scar when I need it to... it doesn't do much for me in the first place...
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Cloudraker
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Post by Cloudraker » Thu May 03, 2007 11:01 am

The alien proponents are being very quiet... whatever happened to "aliens rule!!!" or "aliens are the best freaking cams ever produced!!"
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Brendan
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Post by Brendan » Thu May 03, 2007 12:26 pm

Black Diamond
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YetAnotherDave
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Post by YetAnotherDave » Fri May 04, 2007 6:23 am

Cloudraker wrote:The alien proponents are being very quiet... whatever happened to "aliens rule!!!" or "aliens are the best freaking cams ever produced!!"
If he'd asked about aiding I'd have recommended aliens (offsets rule) but they just don't seem near as durable as TCUs. My aliens are way newer than my TCUs and they're way more thrashed.
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dakine
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Post by dakine » Fri May 04, 2007 7:34 am

Most people I've talked to are recommending the TCU's but I've read and heard of them failing drastically (the new models).

Thoughts?
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