Squamish beta

[samr]

Hi, I'm visiting Squamish from the UK for 2 weeks in May, can anyone advise on the following:
Camping - tent or camper van (mini-van? Don't want a winebago!)?
Routes - would like to sample bit of everything, but mainly coming for the trad, are cracks the prevalent style?
Car/van hire - flying to Seattle who is the cheapest rental company?
Areas and guidebooks - what's best?

Thanks for any info.

[Peter]

Tent or van is fine, most people camp at the Chief campground:
http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/projec ... wamus.html

Lots of cracks, plus slab. Also, excellent bouldering and good sport climbing.

Car rental, try the usual cheaptickets.com etc....

Squamish Select is the best guide, you can buy it in town....

[PAW]

bus from seattle to van is cheap like 30$us. from there easy hitch hike

[Rock_Climber]

I'm gunna have to say that if you're climbing trad then the Kevin McLane guidebook is best. It's just more expensive $...

[Rock_Climber]

Oh, and the tent camping is like $9 a night and right by some of the best climbing.

[samr]

thanks.

Another questions re: ropes

I use 2 60m 8.5mms for trad in the UK - bring them? or would it be just as well to bring a single 10mm sport rope and use it for everything?

I've heard that the bouldering landings tend to be rocky ankle eaters; can you hire pads anywhere in the area?

Ta

[Dooley]

Oh, and the tent camping is like $9 a night and right by some of the best climbing.

I could be wrong, but my understanding is that the camp ground is charging $24 per site this year with a three tent max!

Can anybody verify?

[Dooley]

Just looked through the link that Peter has posted. Says $9 per party per night. So I guess that I heard a rumor!

[Brendan]

I'm gunna have to say that if you're climbing trad then the Kevin McLane guidebook is best. It's just more expensive $...

McLane's guide is the 'comprehensive' squamish guide. it has ALL (99%) of the climbs done in squamish up to the publish date. whereas Bourdon's guide has all the worthwhile - excellent classic climbs, it also includes the sport climbing areas all the way to beyond Whistler! if you get Bourdon's guide, you won't be missing much in the way of climbs worth your time by not getting the other one.
they're both excellent though. get both!

[numa_cruiser]

thanks.

Another questions re: ropes

I use 2 60m 8.5mms for trad in the UK - bring them? or would it be just as well to bring a single 10mm sport rope and use it for everything?

I've heard that the bouldering landings tend to be rocky ankle eaters; can you hire pads anywhere in the area?

Ta

You can probably get away with just a 10mm rope, but you may want to bring one of the 8.5s as well and use it for long rappels. Twin 60s would be a bit of a pain in the butt for cragging days, and the nature of the climbing is such that double ropes aren't really necessary.

Valhalla Pure Outfitters has at least one rental bouldering pad; I don't know if Climb-On does but I wouldn't be surprised.

[J Mace]

Twin 60s would be a bit of a pain in the butt for cragging days, and the nature of the climbing is such that double ropes aren't really necessary.

Not sure if you meant to interchange the names there but twins are not doubles amd 8.5's would be doubles

youll need 2 ropes if you plan on rapping any of the big routes either by choice, weather or accident

otherwise one 60m single will be fine

[numa_cruiser]

Wow, gosh....thanks for catching that one. Samr might have missed his flight due to all the time he spent looking for one of those rare 8.5mm Twins!

[crankmas]

I too will be heading into Squamish but in July, with just a few days and no partner I was thinking of just bouldering, is there a bouldering only guide or known topos? Thanks for any info also I'll have harness, belay device etc. is their a hang where I might be able to locate a partner for a day or two? Gladly reciprocate any needed beta for Red River Gorge in KY , USA if needed.

[samr]

thank you everyone for the info. Just one more question: what routes are a must do up to say 5.12a trad & 13a sport? Please note that I am expecting to recieve a schooling... Has anyone climbing in the UK & can they give any info on how the grading compares other than this: http://www.rockfax.com/publications/grades.html
Thanks once more.

[Brendan]

^^ the cover of Squamish Select is a shot of Sentry Box .12a... it's a classic. if you're going for the onsight then do the direct start Sentry Box Direct, also .12a.
The Left Side (of the Split Pillar on the Grand Wall) is also a classic .12a crack!
leave your double ropes at home. you're better off w/ say a 70m 9.8 single or something like that. 60m should suffice, although if you're doing multi-pitch climbing you'll have to bring two.