Passing on long routes

[tobyfk]

But I have seen this all over the place, not just squamish, and is one of the reasons I almost don't do any trad anymore.

Sadly, if you climb in the eurozone, sticking to sport-climbing won't keep you out of the merde. Most sport crags in France (and Italy/ Spain/ etc) are awash with crap, admittedly around the base of the crag rather than en-route. Maybe the solution is to ban euro climbers from Squamish? Those road crews on the 99 could be paid a little extra to check suspicious vehicles ...

[Brendan]

interesting replies...

i remember talking to this French-Canadian (lol) team for quite some time at the base of the pillar while i was sitting on the cedar tree, and he actually tried climbing over me to shat down cruel shoes!!

i was like... "WTF, just rap down and go in the can!"

he responded (in that rediculous french-canadian accent)... "we're from Montreal, so our time is limited! and it's human nature!" lol... what a joke!!

so if you read my first post, you'll see that we bailed! only to return a few days later, and find his shat in the back of the pillar!! good thing i always lieback the upper chimney!!! i hope he missed, and got some in his chalk bag and on his rope

cheers

[Brendan]

lol... i have pics of them if anyone wants to identify the culprits!! haha... i will change my username to "whistleblower" and post pics of guilty climbers shatting where they shouldn't!!

[Squamishmonkey]

Brendan,
Maybe you should e-mail their pictures to the Montreal Gyms with a little note saying that they are not welcome back to Squamish.... unless it is acceptable to crap where ever in Montreal as long as you have limited time....

[Brendan]

haha... lets all go to Montreal and scat upon the climbing gym walls... haha
j/k. seriosly tho, i would obviously never post their pics up, for the crappy idea i have that i should respect their climbing status!!? lol...

[thebigchin]

A couple of years ago I came across a nice "log" at the belay at the top of Merci Me where you start the traverse to get to the pillar. Buddy didn't even have the sense to take his nut tool and flick it off the wall. It was obviously left as a gift for some party coming behind him.

[Clive kessler]

I am going to walk upto the top of the squaw and crap down pipeline...

[ctardi]

...don't forget to flush.

I even found a log on the trail up to the right of the wall in hatzik. EEW! This doesn't even apply to just multi pitch routes. Seriously, if you really really have to go now! and there's no outhouse, at least do it somewhere people won't be walking!

[harihari]

the Pillar stunk like this in '03 when it also didn't rain for 2.5 months. Also why would you do chimney moves on the top of the Pillar when you can do two 5.8 layback moves and be done with it?

The Pillar is my pet peeve: somebody goes up "just to the top of the Pillar" with their boyfriend/girlfriend and the second thrashes cos they have no idea how to jam, and you hang out for an hour waiting for what should be a 15 minute lead. (in grumpy moments, I think the belay bolts on the Pillar should be chopped. This would give the gumbies pause, as it would preclude easy (or cheap) retreat, and you can in any case build a bomber anchor in the bottom of the Sword.)

I think a good guideline is, you shouldn't be on a long route until you can both consistently onsight the grade and style of climbing and the # of pitches on your long route. E.G. If you are going to do Angel's Crest, you should be able to onsight up to 5.10c, and you should be able to do this after climbing 12 pitches in say the Bluffs. Long routes are NOT the place to find out how hard you can climb.

There's those lists of routes you should do before you try Astroman or the Nose or whatever-- mabe we could make a list of Squamish shorter routes one should do before trying the longer ones?

[thebigchin]

Some of the most inspired climbing I've done is on routes that I shouldn't have been on according to your proposed guideline. I'm going back to my original statement that if you start up Angel's Crest knowing that there's a party ahead of you, then be prepared to wait while they do their thing.

There are thousands of routes in the area. If you're stoked on the Grand or AC, or Millenium Falcon, then get your a$% outa bed early and get on it first.

[harihari]

Some of the most inspired climbing I've done is on routes that I shouldn't have been on according to your proposed guideline. I'm going back to my original statement that if you start up Angel's Crest knowing that there's a party ahead of you, then be prepared to wait while they do their thing.

There are thousands of routes in the area. If you're stoked on the Grand or AC, or Millenium Falcon, then get your a$% outa bed early and get on it first.

mine, too! but I havn't jumped onto a trade route way above my limit on a busy day.

[XXXX]

I saw Guy Edwards birth a big brown coiler on Teetering on the Brink of Madness a decade ago. Maybe you should clean up that one harihari, the fossil might still be there!

[thebigchin]

mine, too! but I havn't jumped onto a trade route way above my limit on a busy day.

Fair enough, but there's a big difference between being "way above my limit" and needing to be able to onsite 10c after a 12 pitches of similar climbing in order to climb AC.