Pipeline - What Gear

[JaapSuter]

Hello,

Offwidths have recently caught my attention (I think Mike Hengevelds page [see below] helped) with Pipeline being the goal. Does anybody know what kind of gear I'll need going up there? The Squamish guide book doesn't mention anything in particular, but Mike mentions bigbros and large cams. What size, how many, etc.? If you've done it, please share your story.

Also, can anybody recommend some good offwidth practice crags? Mike mentions Split Beaver and March of the Kitchen Utensils. Vector has some wide sections but it's not really that offwidth.

Thanks,

Jaap Suter

Mike's page: http://home.primus.ca/~dooley/climbing/ ... idths.html

[rich k]

the backside of the chief would probably be your best bet. kitchen utensils is fun, the schimtar would definitely teach you some lessons (if you don't lie-back it... unless you plan on lie-backing pipeline, which i think furneaux did by clipping the bolt at bottom and racing up it sans pro, after top-roped rehearsals). you may be able to practice your testicle scums and get your chicken-wing elbow callouses developed on boogie til you puke (or bop til you drop, always confuse the two), which is also up there and i don't think you can lie-back that one. you won't have to worry about crowds up there either - i don't think anyone lines up for those routes.

as for pipeline strategy, i haven't done it, but i've heard strategies that include 2 big-bros and 1 #6 technical friend (the website you've looked at might say the same thing, but it's too much to read on a lunch break). keep pushing the friend above your head, plug in 2 big bros at your feet as you go. i was talking to george at climb-on a while ago about that route and he had beta so you might want to talk to him...

good luck, and have fun?

[rich k]

oh, and if you're in split beaver territory, there's some easier off-widths at octupus garden...

[rich k]

last thing: pipeline is easily accessible from the top of the squaw via the descent trail. if you're into headpointing you could rap in and try it on a top rope before deciding to drop $$$ on the gear and time on your off-width skill...

[JaapSuter]

Thanks, good advice. I like the top-rope idea. Wasn't sure how easy it was to rig up but sounds worth the investment.

Thanks again!

Jaap Suter

[rich k]

if you're having trouble finding a belayer for top-rope rehearsals, you could mention to them that they could belay from above and don't have to rap down with you, avoiding fixed-line climbing or, even better, having to climb the s.o.b. maybe set the trap by suggesting climbing jungle warfare or birds of prey, then once you're at the top, pop the question on em: 'hey, you mind if i give pipeline a try. you could just lower me down, you don't even have to move. here's a beer i brought up for you'

[JaapSuter]

Rich K; haha, great style. If you ever need a partner, drop me a note.

That said, my regular climber partner is more adventurous than I am, so if anything I'll be lowering her instead. Mmm, does that mean I can drink the beer?

[rich k]

if you can't find a belayer and you're still feeling kinda crazy, you can get (at least you used to be able to) an ushba ascender at climb-on for single line top-rope soloing. do your own recon mish, hike the descent trail, rap down solo and it's you and the off-width - how romantic... i'd suggest bringing a couple of prussiks and a headlamp so you can get yourself out of the situation after you're done puking.

[rich k]

jaap, if you're gonna give me beer, drop into an off-width and let me watch after topping-out a multi-pitch route, i'll climb with you any time. oh, and yes you can drink a beer before getting lowered if you want. i'd recommend shotgunning it...

[XXXX]

The problem with an Ushba in a squeeze chimney is that it and you might not both fit in the squueze. And pipeline is definitely more of a squeezer near the top

[rich k]

good point.... might not be able to practice your hip jams and groin-to-back cams

[5.4 Slayer]

This should cover it....
http://home.primus.ca/~dooley/climbing/ ... idths.html

[Jason]

Just do what my friend from Sacromento did when he climbed Pipeline yesterday - onsight solo it! (no joke)

No partner, no gear, no problem...

...I was floored.

[XXXX]

In the style of the FFA in other words

[rich k]

jason, did he lie-back it or get right in it?